GPHG 2024: Van Cleef & Arpels Wins the Ladies’ Watch Prize

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Lady Arpels Jour Nuit © Van Cleef & Arpels
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This Wednesday, November 13, the Lady Jour Nuit watch was awarded the Ladies’ Watch Prize at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève 2024. This prize honors feminine timepieces featuring traditional hour and minute displays.

The spectacle of the heavenly vault has provided Van Cleef & Arpels with inspiration for precious watch creations which reflect the vision of Poetry of Time unique to the Maison. Thanks to virtuoso time-keeping mechanisms, the Lady Jour Nuit watch reinterprets the celestial ballet, choreographing the complementary trajectories of the Sun and Moon in a dial showcasing a delicate movement, day after day. 

Lady Arpels Jour Nuit © Van Cleef & Arpels
Lady Arpels Jour Nuit © Van Cleef & Arpels

The cycle of the Sun and Moon 

Awed by the spectacle of the stars, Van Cleef & Arpels is reinventing the Lady Arpels Jour Nuit watch, first introduced in 2008, with this 33-mm model. The diamond-paved Moon and stars perpetually pursue the Sun, illustrated in guilloché yellow gold. Featuring a 24-hour rotating disc – developed at the Maison’s Watchmaking Workshops in Geneva –, the dial revolves almost imperceptibly. Thanks to the depth effect of the Murano aventurine glass, the piece renders the immensity of the cosmos and the magic of a starry night. A veritable feat of technical design, the glass presents delicate openings to hold the diamond-set white-gold stars. 

On the dial, a mother-of-pearl shroud painted in blue and adorned with a guilloché motif symbolizes the horizon behind which flows the poetry of the cosmos. A sapphire crystal covers the rear of the case and the oscillating weight, embellished with a polished star- studded sky. Decorated using the enamel tracing technique, they reveal a protective fairy admiring the winsome ballet of the planets. 

Murano aventurine glass 

Production of aventurine glass in Murano begins with the manufacturing of conventional glass, heated to 1,200 °C. Thanks to the presence of ore in a crucible, the glass takes on a sparkling deep blue color. The crucible must then cool completely before being broken with a hammer. This step in and of itself takes a month. The pieces of aventurine glass are then cut − an extremely delicate procedure − to extract thin layers. A rigorous selection process guarantees uniformity in terms of hue and glitter on the disc making up the dial. 

Lady Arpels Jour Nuit on diamond bracelet © Van Cleef & Arpels
Lady Arpels Jour Nuit with diamond bracelet © Van Cleef & Arpels

Enamel decal on sapphire glass

Enamel decal on sapphire glass is a time- honored savoir-faire that complements engraving work. Extreme precision is achieved thanks to the use of vintage cast- iron machines and specific fitting methods developed by the Maison’s Workshops. The complexity of this technique lies in striking the perfect balance between temperature and firing time. Drying periods between each coat vary according to the enamels used and the overall thickness. 

Two new savoir-faire were developed for Jour Nuit crystals: the use of platinum – for the fairy silhouette – and the pointillism technique to create a color gradient, thus infusing the blue background with greater vitality. 

The Poetic Complications collection 

Created in 2006, the Poetic Complications collection brings together watchmaking techniques, precious materials and traditional savoir-faire to breathe life into a singular story enlivening every dial. Retrograde movements, rotating discs, on-demand animations and more: these highly complex modules are developed at Van Cleef & Arpels’ Watchmaking Workshops in Geneva. 

Lady Arpels Jour Nuit © Van Cleef & Arpels
Lady Arpels Jour Nuit © Van Cleef & Arpels

With every creation, the Maison’s craftsmen also perpetuate and heighten centuries-old enameling, miniature painting, engraving and sculpture techniques. Exceptional mechanisms and métiers d’art unite to offer precious moments of poignant contemplation, firmly rooted in Van Cleef & Arpels’ creative spirit.

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Nicolas Bos