The Art of Ultra-Thin

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Extra-thin watches © Amaury Thomas / WorldTempus
1 minute read
The creation of an ultra-thin movement could be considered a watchmaking complication in its own right, comparable to crafting a skeletonised calibre. The challenge lies in assembling all the components on a two-dimensional plane, while taking up as little of the third dimension as possible. This requires the complex interweaving and fusion of the hundreds of parts needed to make the mechanical movement run

Chopard – CHF 11,200

This four-in-one watch boasts an understated design, an in-house calibre, a prestigious certification and sustainability credentials. The perfectly proportioned 7.2 mm thick case, made from 80% recycled steel, houses the L.U.C 96.12-L movement. At just 3.30 mm thick, this COSC-certified chronometer is a marvel of miniaturisation. 

L.U.C XPS Forest Green en Lucent Steel, 40 mm de diamètre, mouvement automatique avec petite seconde, bracelet en cuir © Chopard
L.U.C XPS Forest Green in Lucent Steel, 40 mm diameter, automatic movement with small seconds, leather strap © Chopard

Breguet – CHF 20,400

A paragon of simplicity from one of the greatest names in traditional watchmaking, this timepiece is powered by an ultra-thin in-house calibre just 2.4 mm thick, housed in a svelte 5.5 mm case. The superb hand-guilloché dial features Roman numeral hour markers and distinctive blued “off-centre apple” hands. 

Classique 5157 en or rose, 38 mm de diamètre, mouvement automatique, bracelet en cuir © Breguet
Classique 5157 in rose gold, 38 mm diameter, automatic movement, leather strap © Breguet

Jaeger-LeCoultre – CHF 25,700

This full perpetual calendar, driven by an in-house calibre, offers exceptional value. The mechanics are impeccable (providing a 70-hour power reserve) and the understated case design creates a timeless classic measuring just 9.2 mm in thickness.

Master Ultra Thin Perpetual Calendar en acier, 39 mm de diamètre, mouvement automatique avec jour, date et mois sur compteurs auxiliaires, année bissextiles et année par guichets et indicateur des phases de Lune, bracelet en cuir © Jaeger-LeCoultre
Master Ultra Thin Perpetual Calendar in steel, 39 mm diameter, automatic movement with windowed day, date, month and leap year indicators and a moon phase display, leather strap © Jaeger-LeCoultre

Cartier – CHF 28,000

This timepiece is a masterful combination of two complications: skeletonisation and ultra-thin design, with a calibre measuring just 4.4 mm deep. The delicate mechanical lacework is enhanced by a charming detail: the micro-rotor at 5 o’clock is shaped like the Demoiselle aircraft designed in 1908 by Alberto Santos Dumont himself.

Santos Dumont en acier, 43, 5 x 31, 4 mm, mouvement squelette automatique, bracelet en cuir © Cartier
Santos Dumont in steel, 43.5 x 31.4 mm, automatic skeleton movement, leather strap © Cartier

Bulgari – CHF 36,200

In true Finissimo style, this version remains incredibly slim at just 5.95 mm, while incorporating two complications. Not only is the calibre skeletonised, it is also astonishingly thin, at a mere 2.5 mm. Note the striking contrast between the rose gold case and the charcoal PVD-treated movement.

Octo Finissimo Squelette 8 jours en or rose, 40 x 40 mm, mouvement squelette à remontage manuel avec indicateur de réserve de marche et petite seconde, bracelet en cuir © Bulgari
Octo Finissimo Skeleton 8 Days in rose gold, 40 x 40 mm, manual-winding skeleton movement with power reserve indicator and small seconds, leather strap © Bulgari

Audemars Piguet – CHF 70,300

The Royal Oak, the most iconic sports-chic watch since its 1972 debut, is presented here in a luxuriously thin version. Featuring an original “granular effect” blue dial, it is powered by the in-house calibre 7121 with a thickness of just 3.2 mm, unveiled during the Royal Oak’s 50th anniversary celebrations.

Royal Oak Jumbo en or blanc, 39 mm de diamètre, mouvement automatique avec date par guichet, bracelet en or blanc © Audemars Piguet
Royal Oak Jumbo in white gold, 39 mm diameter, automatic movement with date window, white gold bracelet © Audemars Piguet

Vacheron Constantin – CHF 119,000

Nothing is too refined for this watchmaker’s creative imagination, which provides in-house calibres and interchangeable straps as standard features. Here, the art of ultra-thin takes centre stage. The 1120 QP/1 calibre is only 4 mm thick, and yet it houses a full perpetual calendar complication.

Overseas Quantième Perpétuel en or gris, 41, 5 mm de diamètre, mouvement automatique avec jour, date, mois et années bissextiles sur compteurs auxiliaires et indicateur des phases de Lune, bracelet interchangeable au choix en cuir, or gris et caoutchouc © Vacheron Constantin
Overseas Quantième Perpétuel in white gold, 41.5 mm diameter, automatic movement with day, date, month and leap year indicators, moon phase display, interchangeable strap in leather or rubber, or white gold bracelet © Vacheron Constantin

Piaget – CHF 600,000

Piaget reaffirms its reputation for creating the world’s thinnest calibres with this record-breaking tourbillon. Unveiled at this year’s Watches and Wonders fair, the movement is seamlessly integrated into the 2 mm thick case, setting a new benchmark in ultra-thin watchmaking.

Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon 150th Anniversary en cobalt, 41,5 mm de diamètre, mouvement à remontage manuel avec échappement à tourbillon, heures et minutes décentrées et petite seconde, bracelet textile © Piaget
Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon 150th Anniversary in cobalt, 41.5 mm diameter, manual-winding movement with tourbillon escapement, off-centre hours and minutes and small seconds, textile strap © Piaget
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