The Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) prize-giving ceremony takes place this coming Wednesday. Often heralded as the Oscars of watchmaking, the red-carpet gala celebrates excellence in horology across numerous categories, with one of its most coveted awards being the Men’s Watch Prize.
Over the past decade, this category has showcased a fascinating mix of traditional craftsmanship, cutting-edge innovation and daring design. From the elegance of Akrivia’s Chronomètre Contemporain to the pioneering spirit of Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud’s FB 1 and the sleek technicity of Bulgari’s Octo Finissimo Automatic, the GPHG Men's Watch Prize has come to represent the very best in modern watchmaking aimed, primarily, towards men.
As with last year, we took a poll in the office to see who could steal the spotlight and take home the award this time around. Let’s dive into the nominated watches and explore what makes each a strong contender!
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra Platinum
Bulgari’s Octo Finissimo series has cemented itself as a tour de force in ultra-thin watchmaking, racking up numerous awards and records. This year at the GPHG, the Octo Finissimo Ultra Platinum builds on that legacy, bringing together avant-garde design and a feat of engineering in one ultra-slim offering.
The Octo Finissimo Ultra achieved the title of the thinnest mechanical watch in the world at the time of its release and, with a thickness of just 1.80mm, it’s almost unfathomable how much Bulgari has packed into such a slender package.
The watch’s 40mm platinum case is satin-polished and sandblasted, creating a textured, monochromatic effect that’s sleek and sophisticated. The skeletonised dial and tungsten carbide mainplate offer an intimate look at the inner workings – though not that “inner” given the thinness – of this manual-winding marvel.
Bulgari’s CEO, Jean-Christophe Babin, may very well find himself back on the GPHG stage with this one, further solidifying the brand's reputation as an innovator in modern watchmaking.
Garrick S3 MK2
A celebration of British craftsmanship, Garrick’s S3 MK2 is a nod to traditional watchmaking with a distinctly contemporary edge. This iteration features a skeletonised dial that reveals the UT-G04 calibre, a movement with a number of in-house made components that have been painstakingly decorated and polished by hand.
The S3 MK2 stands out for its refined aesthetics and attention to detail – from its printed openwork dial with neatly grained wheels to its prominent Trinity free-sprung balance. This 42mm steel and gold watch exudes a sense of English sophistication while displaying Garrick's commitment to artisanal details.
Following the nomination of its S4 model in 2021’s “Petite Aiguille” category, Garrick is now setting its sights on the Men’s Prize, hoping to bring some of Norfolk’s horological splendour to Geneva.
Grand Seiko Manual-Winding Hi-Beat 36000
Grand Seiko’s commitment to chronometric excellence and finely tuned mechanics finds a worthy expression in its nature-inspired Manual-Winding Hi-Beat 36000.
After clinching the Men’s Watch Prize in 2021, the Japanese company returns with yet another Hi-Beat marvel, featuring the Evolution 9 Collection’s latest manual-wound Calibre 9SA4.
The 38.6mm titanium case, with Zaratsu polishing, radiates an almost ethereal glow, while the textured dial subtly mimics the beauty of birch trees. The click of the winding mechanism, inspired by Japan's wagtail bird, adds a satisfying, sensory dimension to the ritual of winding.
Hajime Asaoka Tsunami "Art Deco"
Grand Seiko is not the only representative from Japan in the Men’s Watch category: From revered independent watchmaker, Hajime Asaoka, comes the Tsunami "Art Deco," a testament to his flair for detail and commitment to traditional craftsmanship.
Drawing inspiration from 1930s Art Deco and the automotive designs of Delage and Delahaye, this 37mm steel watch is a fusion of vintage and modern elegance.
The enamelled dial with vertically contrasting colours is intricate yet bold, while Asaoka's hand-finished 'Tako' wheel in gold stands as a signature of his expertise. The Tsunami "Art Deco" is sure to draw the eye and perhaps the votes of those with a taste for handcrafted beauty paired with retro styling.
Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Petite Seconde Platinum
Following its stunning revival at this year’s Watches & Wonders salon, the Toric Petite Seconde from Parmigiani Fleurier is a nod to the brand's classical roots, blended seamlessly with modern elegance.
Housed in a 40.6mm platinum case with an 8.8mm height, the Toric Petite Seconde showcases Parmigiani’s iconic knurled bezel, reminiscent of ancient Doric columns. The hand-grained dial in celadon grey gives a refined, matte finish that is at once minimalist and rich.
Inside, the in-house manually-wound Caliber PF780 operates with fine efficiency, offering a 60-hour power reserve. Through the sapphire crystal case back, Parmigiani’s dedication to craftsmanship is on full display, with Côtes de Fleurier-decorated bridges that further elevate this piece.
Voutilainen KV20i Reversed
No GPHG would be complete without an entry from Kari Voutilainen. This year, the Val-de-Travers-based Finn returns with the KV20i Reversed, a watch that, at first glance, recalls his 28ti model – that triumphed in the Men’s Prize in 2019 – with its inverted movement.
Similarly, the KV20i Reversed offers a cool twist: its back-to-front construction provides a neat way to appreciate Voutilainen’s mesmerising movement construction and legendary hand-finishing, with the watch’s single-arm balance wheel stealing the show.
This 39mm platinum watch has an overall alluring blue-and-grey colour scheme that looks sober yet contemporary. As usual, each component has been crafted, decorated and assembled in-house, reflecting the brand’s dedication to high-quality, low-volume watchmaking.
With six GPHG Men’s Prize wins already under his belt, Voutilainen is once again a formidable contender.
The WorldTempus Votes Are In!
After an exciting round of anonymous voting in our office, two names have surfaced as clear favourites, both receiving an equal number of votes: Parmigiani Fleurier’s refined Toric Petite Seconde Platinum and Bulgari’s innovative Octo Finissimo Ultra Platinum.
Each represents a different facet of what makes the Men’s Watch category so compelling. Parmigiani’s piece exudes classic elegance with every detail designed to perfection, while Bulgari’s creation speaks to modern minimalism and ultra-technical prowess.
Will it be the timeless charm of the Toric, the groundbreaking slimness of the Octo Finissimo or perhaps one of the other four fine contenders that sways the GPHG academy? We can’t wait to find out!
Join us on WorldTempus for the official live feed of the 2024 GPHG Awards Ceremony on Wednesday, 13 November at 6:15 pm CET, and witness the crowning of this year’s finest in watchmaking. Don’t miss it!
