Can You Please Repeat That?

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The Small Second Blue Orbit is part of a new family from the Lucerne watchmaker Chronoswiss. © Chronoswiss
Chronoswiss combines legacy with its modern mechanical mantra for two of its novelties in the spring of 2025 – the Q-Repeater and the Small Second.

With a floating 3-D dial held together by CVD-coated bridges in strong colours like purple, orange, and Paraiba, Chronoswiss gives the classical complication quarter repeater a contemporary zeitgeist. It is, to say the least, a far cry from the first repeater watch, which was invented by Daniel Quare in 1680. 

The button at 10 o'clock energises and activates the quarter repeater. © Chronoswiss
The button at 10 o'clock energises and activates the quarter repeater. © Chronoswiss

The Q-Repeater features a NOS 1990s movement made uniquely for Chronoswiss by La Chaux-de-Fonds manufacturer Enicar. which has been totally revamped. “I love how the legacy movement becomes part of the visual stage, even holding luminous blocks and moving elements. It’s a daring design that makes sound visible,” Chronoswiss CEO Oliver Ebstein said about the Q-Repeater, which also features the brand’s typical regulator division of time. The quarter repeater, on which two hammers are visible on the dial side chimes the hours and quarters when the button at 10 o’clock is pushed, comes in two versions: the wildly coloured Scream, and the more subtle Blue Note. Scream could be compared with a colorful rock concert, whereas the more subtle Blue Note is more of a laidback jazz session for the wrist.

The choice of grade 5 titanium was a no-brainer, according to Mr. Ebstein. “Titanium offers exceptional acoustic properties, making it the ideal material for a Quarter Repeater—its natural resonance enhances the clarity and richness of every chime. Besides that, titanium is not just a material—it’s a mindset. It represents strength, lightness, and modernity,” he said. 

The slim profile of the Small Second is only 11.5 millimetres. © Chronoswiss
The slim profile of the Small Second is only 11.5 millimetres. © Chronoswiss

Even though the movement existed, every component was inspected and serviced to match contemporary standards. “Bridges were newly decorated with hand-guilloché and CVD-coating to also connect the legacy movement visually to the modern skeleton dial. The movement became part of the dial—to us that is the pinnacle of evolution,” Mr. Ebstein continued.

The biggest challenge was integrating a historic calibre into a modern mechanical framework—visually, technically, and structurally. “We overcame this by re-engineering the architecture around the movement. Every visible element was built on top of, or around, the original. It’s a delicate balance between legacy and innovation.” 

Second to none

With Small Second, Chronoswiss begins a new family. The idea of the slim model, which measures 40 millimetres in diameter, is to get rid of excess, yet remain rich in detail and craftmanship. The new family starts with two versions: Small Second Desert, with a laser-engraved sand-coloured dial, and Blue Orbit, with handmade guilloché dial made by one of Chronoswiss’ three guillocheurs mastering the craft with a century-old rose lathe. The slim case (11.5 millimetres) features polished sides, sandblasted and sculpted lugs, as well as the most streamlined crown the Lucerne watchmaker has made to this day.

Q-Repeater Blue Note is a bit more subtle, but equipped with the same three-dimensional dial. © Chronoswiss
Q-Repeater Blue Note is a bit more subtle, but equipped with the same three-dimensional dial. © Chronoswiss

“Using a laser-engraved surface, followed by nano-printing 10 individual layers, we created a texture that reflects the shifting, granular depth of desert sand. To me, it’s not decorative—it’s an experience. The idea was born while I was travelling through Namibia a few years ago. I was struck by the sheer scale and purity of the dunes—raw, powerful, yet sculpted by time,” said Mr. Ebstein of Small Second Desert, adding that the dials aren’t flat. They are slightly domed, with depth created by a multi-level construction. The small seconds at 9 o’clock sits in a slightly lower position, which enhances the 3D effect. 

To Mr. Ebstein, the most important tendency in the watch industry 2025 is what he calls clarity of purpose. “The industry is shifting towards watches with strong identity—not just pretty dials or trends. That’s why we introduced the PULSE ONE, the Small Second and the Quarter Repeater. Every Chronoswiss carries the DNA, the very identity of the brand in it. Each in a different way, yet clearly differentiable. I believe 2025 will be about authenticity, craftsmanship, and brands that stand for something.”

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