Zenith’s watch collections are a reflection of the manufacture’s experience: they are both expansive and substantial. But, for anyone looking for a contemporary model without excessive complications, the Defy line stands out. It offers two key variations: the aptly named Classic (with round case and three hands) and the Skyline, easily recognisable by its star-patterned engraved dial and distinctive 12-sided bezel.
A more spectacular variation already exists in the form of a sculptural skeleton. However, until now, this Defy Skyline Skeleton was only available in a three-hand version (hours, minutes and seconds). During LVMH Watch Week, Zenith unveiled its first chronograph iteration: the Defy Skyline Chronograph Skeleton. This is, to date, the sportiest and most spectacular model in the Defy Skyline collection.
A cut above
This new variation is a welcome addition to the collection. It offers Skyline enthusiasts a skeleton chronograph, providing a tantalising glimpse into the inner workings of the legendary El Primero movement. Zenith’s approach here is more nuanced than it might first appear. Rather than simply removing the dial, they have reimagined it. Openworked in a clever geometric pattern, it reinterprets the skeleton concept in a strikingly architectural manner. Sharp angles and multiple levels create a dramatic effect, with the openworked dial plunging towards the movement as it rises to meet the sapphire crystal. The intersection is perfectly executed...
Two variants
For this first skeleton chronograph, Zenith has opted for a visually arresting electric blue PVD finish. This provides a striking backdrop for the three grey counters: chronograph hours and minutes, and small seconds at 6 o’clock. Red accents are a reminder of the piece’s sporty character. Together, these three colours – grey, blue and red – echo the original aesthetic of the 1969 El Primero, but in a supercharged, almost steroid-enhanced version. The steel case nevertheless maintains a tasteful 42 mm diameter, adhering to current standards of horological propriety.
A second model introduced at the same time features a dial in shades of black and slate grey. These cooler, more urban tones evoke the skylines of great metropolises like New York, paying homage to the collection’s name.
Best in class
Beyond their novel appearance, these two pieces retain the technical excellence and refined finishing of the Skyline range. At their heart beats the iconic El Primero movement, operating at 5 Hz and boasting a 60-hour power reserve. In terms of finish, the Defy Skyline is exemplary, rivalling pieces that cost ten times as much. The 12-sided bezel features a vertical satin-brushed finish that continues onto the bracelet, complemented by mirror-polished sides and edges. Some may lament the absence of a date display, but the Defy Skyline Chrono Skeleton isn’t trying to be a “sport-chic” or “neo-vintage” compromise. It’s a powerful, precise, thoroughly modern timepiece for an informed audience. In an era often characterised by lukewarm consensus, we appreciate the honesty of Zenith’s clearly defined vision.
