Following the introduction in 2021 of the Reverso Tribute Nonantieme ‘Enamel’ to celebrate the Reverso’s 90th anniversary, Jaeger-LeCoultre presents a new expression of the timepiece in 18k pink gold (750/1000) with an elegant grey sunray dial and decorative enamelling on the reverse. To be made in a limited edition of 90 pieces, this new interpretation again demonstrates La Grande Maison’s constant pursuit of technical innovation married to timeless design and fine craftsmanship.
From polo field to high watchmaking – an icon evolves
Created in 1931, the Reverso was designed to meet the demands of the newly fashionable ‘sporting gentleman’. A challenge was set by polo-playing military officers in India during the British Raj to create a watch that could withstand the rigours of the polo field. The Reverso was the answer – its swivelling case a masterful integration of form and function. Quickly, adopted by tastemakers from all walks of life, it transcended its original sporting purpose as new variations appeared – for both men and women. However, its iconic double-sided case and distinctive Art Deco lines have remained constant, making the Reverso one of the world’s most recognisable wristwatches.
The Reverso was produced as a time-only watch for the first six decades of its life. Then, at the beginning of the 1990s, recognising the revival of interest in mechanical watchmaking, Jaeger-LeCoultre began to introduce complications. In 1991, marking the 60th anniversary, the Reverso Soixantieme displayed a power reserve and date, with another first – a sapphire crystal caseback, to observe the mechanical treasure within. During the decade that followed, five of the great classical complications were reinterpreted, with the movement architecture and visual displays reimagined for the rectangular Reverso case. Then, to mark the completion of another decade, the Reverso Septantieme was introduced in 2001. In 2021, the 90th anniversary of the Reverso’s birth, Jaeger-LeCoultre created the Reverso Tribute Nonantieme. It brought a fresh and exciting stylistic language to the Reverso, presenting an entirely new visual expression of some of watchmaking’s most familiar complications.
A new colour for the front dial; enamel and lacquer enhance the reverse side
Driven by its continuing exploration of beauty and refined craftsmanship, the new interpretation of the Reverso Tribute Nonantieme ‘Enamel’ features an elegant grey sunray-brushed dial and a richly decorated reverse side. The simplicity of the Reverso Tribute iconography – elongated applied indexes, Dauphine hands and a chemin de fer minutes track – places the emphasis on the complications. The ‘Grande Date’ display at 12 o’clock is highlighted by an applied pink golden-coloured frame that echoes the rectangular shape of the case and dial. In the lower half of the dial within the small seconds counter, a moon phase display is set against the background of stars in a deep blue sky. While the colours of these details echo those on the reverse dial, the classically elegant aesthetic gives no hint of the surprise that awaits when flipping the case over.
Turning the case reveals the Nonantieme’s distinctive and visually exciting displays wrapped in the beauty of a starry night sky. The dial comprises two round apertures of different sizes, overlapping and arranged like a figure-eight, which is encircled by gadroons that echo those on the upper and lower edges of the case. The small upper aperture displays a semi-jumping digital hour indication against a white background. Below the hour, the large aperture displays minutes on a rotating disc that is partially concealed by a three-quarter plate, lacquered in a rich shade of blue. Tiny pink gold stars are transferred onto the surface of the lacquer to depict the night sky. Within a smaller circle at the centre, a polished sun and moon indicate night and day as they pass above a horizon. The semi-circle below the horizon is decorated with a guilloché pattern of sunrays and the entire lower aperture is framed by a circle of pink gold beading (18k, 750/1000).
The larger surface surrounding the indications – which had been an unbroken expanse of pink gold in the original Nonantieme – is transformed into a starry night sky with multiple layers of rich blue enamel sprinkled with stars. The latitude and longitude lines are engraved with a hand-held laser to reveal the underlying pink gold case metal.
Classic complications reinvented through mechanical innovation
Showing the same time on both faces of the watch and comprising 243 components, Calibre 826 was conceived specifically for the Reverso Tribute Nonantieme ‘Enamel’ and was developed, produced and assembled entirely in-house. Given La Grande Maison’s philosophy of designing movements that closely fit the shape of their case, the rectangular Reverso creates a particular challenge when designing complications that were traditionally conceived for round movements. To accommodate the Grande Date display within the confined space of the upper dial, in 2021, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s engineers developed a completely new mechanism comprising two small side-by-side discs (one for the units 1–9 and one for the 10s, 20s and 30s) rather than two “stacked” discs, as is normal. When the date passes single digits, a tiny hook on the units disc latches on to the other disc, turning it to create the double-digit reading (10th, 11th, 12th…etc). This patented invention has the additional benefit of displaying both digits of the date at exactly the same level, rather than one slightly lower than the other.
Although La Grande Maison’s watchmakers had incorporated the digital hours complication in some calibres during the 1930s, they have used it rarely in recent decades. For the display, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s engineers opted for a semi-jumping rather than instantaneously jumping mechanism to allow for a more gradual and elegant transition. Also, because an instantaneous jump requires a large and sudden burst of energy, this choice safeguards the power reserve.
Offered in a limited edition of 90 pieces, this new interpretation of the Reverso Tribute Nonantieme ‘Enamel’ underlines the timelessness and versatility of the Reverso, as well as La Grande Maison’s continuing commitment to craft and creativity alongside mechanical innovation and excellence.
