Originally created to defy the laws of physics and push chronometric precision to its limits, the tourbillon was first conceived for pocket watches. In 1947, Omega introduced one of the first wristwatches with a tourbillon. In 1986, Audemars Piguet launched the first self-winding tourbillon waristwatch. Only a select few manufacturers possess the expertise required to produce such a complex mechanism. The result? Its presence in a timepiece offers the perfect opportunity to showcase the watchmakers’ skill through a classical construction. Today, however, the arrival of new materials and artisanal techniques is reshaping the landscape. The tourbillon is being reinvented, ushering watchmaking into a new era of modernity.
A whirlwind of anniversaries
At Watches & Wonders 2025, brands unveiled the standout stars of the upcoming year. Some used the occasion to celebrate milestones—such as Hublot. To mark the 20th anniversary of its Big Bang collection, the brand launched the “Materials and High Complications” box set, priced at 1 million Swiss francs, which drew all eyes. The five pieces in the set embody the brand’s motto, “the art of fusion.” Each tourbillon is paired with one or more prestigious complications, such as the minute repeater in the Big Bang Tourbillon Chronograph Cathedral Minute Repeater. True to Hublot’s DNA, each watch also features a case made from cutting-edge materials: frosted carbon, colored sapphire, red ceramic, Texalium®.
The 127 pieces of the Traditionnelle Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar mark the 270th anniversary of Vacheron Constantin. Its automatic caliber orchestrates a flawless dance between a majestic tourbillon and a perpetual calendar. Platinum was chosen for the case—a precious frame that pairs perfectly with the silvery tones of a hand-guilloché dial in 18-carat gold, featuring a motif specially created for the occasion. The harmonious design maximizes light and enhances the legibility of the calendar display. The rotating tourbillon, adorned with the Maltese cross, becomes a kinetic sculpture.
Nature as inspiration
Calling on the decorative arts is a sure way to evoke emotion. H. Moser has earned a solid reputation for elevating dials using refined techniques and continues to expand its chromatic language. The Endeavour Tourbillon Concept Turquoise Enamel plunges a flying tourbillon with a double hairspring into an imaginary ocean. The dial, animated by a mesmerizing gradient of grand feu enamel, reveals a breathtaking texture—like a seascape shimmering with sunlight.
In a similar spirit, Chopard dazzles with the Alpine Eagle Flying Tourbillon. Its “Rhône Blue” shade echoes the river and the Alpine glacier that feeds it. Staying true to the collection’s aesthetic, the dial’s embossed pattern evokes the intense gaze of an eagle. The sunburst structure, crafted from solid gold, radiates toward the one-minute rotating mechanism positioned at 6 o’clock. The 41 mm Lucent Steel® case offers a broad stage where technique and materials harmonize.
A material for the future
With its 44 mm case made from Ceratanium®—an exclusive material developed by IWC—the Big Pilot’s Watch Shock Absorption Tourbillon Skeleton XPL projects a distinctly modern look. Its openworked dial and tensioned caliber architecture assert a bold, almost futuristic style. Beneath the high-tech exterior lies the SPRIN-g PROTECT® system: it can absorb shocks up to 10,000g, safeguarding an ultra-light flying tourbillon—composed of 56 components and weighing just 0.663 grams. This feat was made possible by advanced simulations.
All of this proves that the ingenious invention patented in 1801 by Abraham-Louis Breguet has lost none of its relevance—and pairs beautifully with the most cutting-edge aesthetics.
