Swiss Haute Horlogerie manufacturer Audemars Piguet is pleased to unveil two new Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet references in stainless steel. Following the launches presented in 2023, these two models feature a dial and strap introducing a new shade of grey which is subtly contrasted by details in the iconic “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” hue. Available in two versions, a Selfwinding and a Selfwinding Chronograph, these iterations focus on ergonomics and readability, offering a refined, sober aesthetic and reinforcing the collection’s great diversity.
An aesthetic combining elegance and subtlety
These two timepieces, crafted entirely in stainless steel, are decorated with the Manufacture’s trademark alternation of polished and satin-brushed surfaces, creating a play of light that enhances the multifaceted architecture of the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet case. Harmoniously complementing steel, the slate grey dials of these new animations are contrasted by “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” accents on the inner bezel and on the counters of the Chronograph.
The dials are also decorated with the “signature” embossed pattern created by AP design teams in collaboration with Swiss guilloché artisan Yann von Kaenel. Meticulously engraved by hand, the base dies used to stamp the dials feature a pattern of concentric circles like ripples on the surface of water. These circles are adorned with hundreds of tiny holes that play with the light. The dials are then pigmented using a galvanic process to preserve and enhance their subtle contours. On the chronograph version, the counters feature the “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” colour obtained using PVD (Physical Vapour Deposition) and are encircled by a rhodium galvanic thread. The pattern’s myriad of details is enhanced by the double-curved sapphire crystal developed specially for the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet collection.
These new references are complemented by elongated, facetted, polished hour-markers and hour and minute hands in 18-carat white gold, filled with luminescent material for optimum readability in the dark. A grey textured rubber strap with calfskin lining completes the design.
The challenge of stainless steel
The lugs are one the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet’s defining features. Unlike most round watches, the upper part of the stylised lugs is seamlessly soldered to the ultra-thin bezel, while the lower part leans delicately against the caseback in perfect alignment. To achieve this, a meticulous and complex process has been developed: a brazing solder – a type of glue – is applied into a carved indentation within the lugs, which are then laser soldered to create a welding joint. The components are subsequently fired in a kiln, allowing the solder to set as it melts. These manual operations are further completed with hand-finishing, using a file to remove imperfections and bring out the brilliance of the lug.
Originally developed for gold cases, the process had to be adapted for stainless steel. Thomas, workshop manager in AP Meyrin, explains that “Stainless steel requires greater precaution throughout the process. For instance, the surrounding temperature must not exceed 25 degrees, and the rapid drying of the solder means that fewer parts can be produced at a time. Hand-finishing also takes more time with steel, which is harder to work with.” Approximately thirty people are devoted to the production of the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet cases. It took an entire year and the creation of a dedicated team to find the best possible parameters for these stainless steel components to meet AP’s quality standards. As with other materials, these elements are tested for their resistance in a machine that pulls on the lugs until they give way. “As experts in precious metals, this project has allowed us to consolidate our expertise in steel and expand our skills further. Developing quality tests while keeping pace with the commercial launch’s schedule has been as demanding as it has been rewarding for the entire team. With each new challenge we face, it's the team’s passion and unity that keeps us motivated and enables us to surpass ourselves” concludes Thomas.
Advanced movements
These new references boast the Manufacture’s latest-generation movements combining technical precision, reliability, ergonomics and refined finishes. These movements have been specifically designed by Audemars Piguet’s engineers and watchmakers for simplicity of use suited to contemporary lifestyles.
The Selfwinding model beats to the rhythm of Calibre 4302 displaying hours, minutes, seconds and a date indication. The Chronograph reference is powered by Calibre 4401, an integrated selfwinding chronograph with a column wheel and flyback function. Both movements are equipped with a patented mechanism that provides stability and precision when setting the watch. With their generous 32 mm diameter, they ensure enhanced chronometry. Calibre 4401 also features a vertical gear system that prevents the hands from jumping when the chronograph is activated or stopped. A patented reset mechanism ensures that each counter hand returns to its original position.
The sapphire caseback reveals the 22-carat pink gold oscillating weight dedicated to the collection, as well as the Haute Horlogerie decorations that adorn the components of these two movements, such as polished angles, vertical satin-brushing, Côtes de Genève, circular graining and chamfering.
