What are the stages prior to launching a new collection?
Obviously a collection has to serve a purpose, fulfil a need and match the market's maturity. For 45 years, and until ten years ago, Hermès sold mainly quartz watches. We then integrated production and 12 years ago made our first mechanical movement. From there we introduced mechanical watches, mostly for men, with the launch of the Slim d’Hermès in 2015. We enjoyed our first commercial successes with technically complex products such as Le Temps Suspendu, L’Heure de la Lune and Le Temps Voyageur.
The Hermès H08 sports watch filled a gap for a high-volume product at the base of the pyramid, with the initial launch three years ago followed by a chronograph version. We like to start off with a relatively broad collection without complications, then introduce various iterations and complications. Seeing women customers' positive reaction to the Hermès H08, we stepped up the pace to propose a smaller, water-resistant sports watch with an in-house movement in an alternative, relatively unisex style. We now have two casual sports lines that are driving growth in our mechanical watches as a complement to the Slim d’Hermès and the Arceau.
What is it about the Hermès Cut that is specifically Hermès?
When we presented the Hermès Cut, some markets wondered about the design codes. Our collections, for example the Kelly or the Cape Cod, have distinctive and identifiable designs but Hermès is a house of creation and we also like to invent new identities. The Hermès H08 is the perfect illustration. For it and for the Hermès Cut, we wanted a shape that would be different to anything that had already been done, and ideally one that would be recognisable. The Hermès Cut, with its pebble-shaped case, polished, clean-cut edges, contrasting surfaces and crown at 1:30, is a radical departure. Not forgetting the dial font, in harmony with the case.
What do you take away from this press trip with journalists from around the world?
It strengthens my belief that this category of luxury is community-driven. This community is about sharing, with journalists and customers. We exchange views and take away ideas, an example being our minute repeater which our customers convinced us to create. This human aspect is what makes our work so enjoyable. It's business with pleasure.
Is the H08 on track with your initial forecasts?
This is our first success in terms of volume and we hadn't forecast sales to this extent. Men tend to be knowledgeable watch buyers and are typically drawn to legacy brands' iconic pieces. The success of the H08 is modest in comparison but it confirms that Hermès is gaining traction in the global market and justifies past investment. Our job now is to keep forging ahead with our four mechanical watch collections.
What will be the next milestone for Hermès Horloger?
We have potential but these are still early days. We must build on this success for the long term. As well as working on the product, we have to give it more of a place in our stores and train sales staff everywhere so that they feel confident when presenting our watches.
