Reissues: Back to the Roots

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TAG Heuer Formula 1 Solargraph © TAG Heuer
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In recent years, a strong trend has emerged in watchmaking: drawing inspiration from past creations to shape the present. But why are brands diving back into their archives?

Reissuing an old model is a way of showcasing heritage. Over the decades, the great watchmaking houses have built a rich legacy, where each timepiece tells a story. By bringing some of these watches back into the catalog, brands reaffirm their identity while responding to clients’ desire for authenticity: in a world flooded with new products, seeing familiar lines again offers a certain comfort.

Behind this move is also a carefully considered business strategy. Collectors see it as an opportunity to get their hands on cult designs. Newcomers find an appealing middle ground: the charm of vintage, combined with modern comfort and technical standards.

This wave of reissues didn’t come out of nowhere. It’s part of a broader cultural moment marked by a resurgence of vintage in fashion, design, and popular culture. The past is reassuring; it evokes a time that feels easier to grasp. And in a world like watchmaking, where time is central to everything, what could be more natural than turning to one’s roots to move forward?

Reissue, revisit, reinterpret… faithful or reimagined? Here are five watches that explore the past from different angles.

Cartier Tank à Guichets

The latest Tank à Guichets is an almost exact reissue of the iconic model first launched in 1928.

Rééditer n'est pas juste copier. Les marques doivent résoudre une équation délicate : ne pas trahir l'esprit d’un modèle historique tout en y intégrant les standards modernes de précision, durabilité et confort. Les rééditions horlogères sont le signe d'une industrie qui, loin de tourner en rond, cherche dans ses racines les clés de son avenir.  © Cartier
Tank à Guichets © Cartier

Already given a modern update once before in 2005, it now returns as part of the prestigious Cartier Privé collection. Three versions are available: yellow gold, rose gold, and platinum. The new Tank features two windows cut directly into the case: the first, showing jumping hours, sits at 12 o'clock. The second, at 6 o’clock, displays the passing minutes. The minute display color varies by version: green (yellow gold), burgundy (rose gold), or dark gray (platinum).

La dernière Tank à Guichets © Cartier
Tank à Guichets © Cartier

Another notable variation is the Tank à Guichets Oblique, discussed in more detail in a separate article dedicated to jump hour watches available here.

TAG Heuer Formula 1 Solargraph 

First launched in the 1980s, the TAG Heuer Formula 1 quickly became an icon for fans of speed and adrenaline. It has stood the test of time without ever losing its sporty DNA.

Today, TAG Heuer brings this model back to the catalog with the Formula 1 Solargraph. Housed in a 43mm sandblasted titanium case, it features an innovative technology: the TH50-00 movement, capable of converting solar energy into electrical power, giving the watch nearly unlimited autonomy. No battery changes needed—just a few hours of light recharge it. Tough, lightweight, and made for all situations, the Solargraph preserves the spirit of the original.

TAG Heuer Formula 1 Solargraph © TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer Formula 1 Solargraph © TAG Heuer

Breguet Souscription 2025

In 1796, Abraham-Louis Breguet designed a groundbreaking piece that made high-end watchmaking more accessible: a single-hand design, a white enamel dial, and a revolutionary subscription model for its time. Breguet offered a 61mm pocket watch with one hand.

Souscription © Breguet
Souscription © Breguet

Two centuries later, under the leadership of Gregory Kissling, Breguet’s new CEO, the brand revives this design in the form of the Classique Souscription 2025. Faithful to the original aesthetics but powered by a state-of-the-art manual movement, it features a 40mm satin-finished Breguet gold case and a grand feu enamel dial. For a deep dive into the technical details and design secrets of this anniversary edition, see the dedicated article: Understanding Breguet’s Classique Souscription 2025. Price: 45,000 CHF.

Souscription 2025 © Breguet
Souscription 2025 © Breguet

Piaget Andy Warhol Clous de Paris 

Piaget brings back the spirit of Andy Warhol with the new Andy Warhol Clous de Paris. Originally launched in 1972 under reference 15102, it was recently renamed in official tribute to the artist through a partnership with the Andy Warhol Foundation for the Visual Arts. This piece embodies more than ever the deep bond between Warhol and the brand.

Piaget ref 15102 © Piaget
Piaget ref 15102 © Piaget

The watch returns in a version featuring a striking blue meteorite dial with natural patterns. Its bold 45mm case, engraved with the Clous de Paris motif in white gold, presents a sculptural silhouette worthy of the legend. Powered by the in-house automatic 501P1 movement, this watch combines Piaget’s legacy with Warhol’s pursuit of uniqueness, offering collectors a rare creation. Price: 56,000 CHF.

Piaget Andy Warhol Clous de Paris © Piaget
Piaget Andy Warhol Clous de Paris

Glashutte Seventies Chronograph Swimming Pool 

This model isn’t strictly a reissue, but it draws on an entire era for its inspiration. Glashütte Original celebrates the vibrant spirit of the 1970s with a special “Swimming Pool” edition of the Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date. Featuring a 40x40mm polished and satin-brushed stainless steel case, the watch evokes the quintessential design of the decade, with dynamic lines and soft curves giving it a distinctive character. It includes a chronograph with flyback function, a power reserve indicator, and the signature Panorama Date. The “Swimming Pool” dial, in bright turquoise, recalls the vivid colors of the Seventies, bringing a unique summery freshness to the model. Inside ticks the 37-02 movement—fully manufactured, decorated, and hand-regulated in-house—offering up to 70 hours of power reserve. Limited edition of 100 pieces.

Seventies Chronograph Swimming Pool © Glashütte
Seventies Chronograph Swimming Pool © Glashütte

Reissuing is not just about copying. Brands must solve a delicate equation: staying true to the spirit of a historic model while incorporating today’s standards of precision, durability, and comfort. Watch reissues are a sign of an industry that, far from going in circles, looks to its roots to find the keys to its future.

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