High-end jewellery and watch brand Van Cleef & Arpels recently launched the first volume of "The Van Cleef & Arpels Collection", a beautifully presented catalogue raisonné that delves into the first 50 years of the maison's rich history.
A must-have for watch and jewellery aficionados, the compendium brings to light nearly 700 pieces from the brand’s patrimonial Collection, including jewels, precious objects and watchmaking masterpieces alongside 200 archival documents, offering a meticulous examination of these within their historical, artistic and cultural contexts.
New Standard
Published by Atelier EXB, the 678-page catalogue is destined to set a new standard in documenting the history of high jewellery with its scientific and scholarly approach.
“The patrimonial Collection is a unique ensemble,” says Alexandrine Maviel Sonet, Van Cleef & Arpels' Patrimony and Exhibitions Director. “Representative of the jewellery arts and major artistic movements of the 20th century, it testifies to the creative coherence demonstrated by the maison since its foundation. As a result of a scientific approach initiated by the Patrimony department, this book highlights this Collection in an unprecedented way.”
Émilie Bérard, Head of the Van Cleef & Arpels Collection, says: “It was essential that pieces from the patrimonial Collection punctuated the catalogue and determined its chapters. They reflect the creative renewal and singular style of Van Cleef & Arpels."
The Creative Boom (1906-1925)
The first chapter transports readers back to the early days of Van Cleef & Arpels, beginning with its founding in Paris in 1906 by Alfred Van Cleef and his wife Esther Arpels’ brothers, Charles and Julien. This period was characterised by rapid growth and innovation, with the maison quickly establishing itself as a leader in the world of jewellery.
The chapter culminates in 1925, a pivotal year marked by the International Exhibition of Modern Decorative and Industrial Arts in Paris, where Van Cleef & Arpels showcased its exquisite craftsmanship with breathtaking pieces like the Entwined Flowers, Red and White Roses bracelet.
A Unique Identity (1926-1937)
Chapter 2 highlights the vibrant and transformative years following the 1925 exhibition. Under the artistic direction of Renée Puissant, Alfred and Esther's daughter, Van Cleef & Arpels embraced bold and innovative designs.
Noteworthy creations from this era include the Circle brooch, the Minaudière, the Ludo bracelet, the Cadenas watch and the Peony clip, a virtuoso example of the Mystery Set technique.
This chapter encapsulates the maison's journey towards establishing a distinctive and recognisable style, culminating in the 1937 International Exposition of Art and Technology in Modern Life.
From Paris to New York (1938-1953)
The final chapter explores Van Cleef & Arpels' expansion across the Atlantic. The 1939 New York World's Fair marked the beginning of the maison's permanent presence in America, leading to a period of creative resurgence during the 1940s and early ‘50s.
This era produced iconic pieces such as the Passe-Partout jewellery, which combined traditional floral motifs with modern functionality.
Immersive Experience
Beyond its rich historical content, the catalogue raisonné is a visual masterpiece. Each piece is meticulously photographed, ensuring optimal picture quality and a harmonious presentation. The book is designed in such a way as to treat the jewellery creations and archival material like an exhibition, offering readers an immersive experience.
Additionally, the digital version of the catalogue is enriched with videos and podcasts.
Available in English, French and Chinese and priced at €220, "The Van Cleef & Arpels Collection (1906-1953)" is essential reading for collectors, historians and enthusiasts, offering an in-depth understanding of the artistic and cultural milestones that have shaped the venerable brand.
It is more than just a catalogue; it is a celebration of the maison's heritage and a testament to its enduring influence in the world of high jewellery and watchmaking, serving as a bridge to connect its illustrious past with a promising future. We can’t wait for Volume 2!
For more information, please visit the publisher’s website.
