The furrow is ploughed slowly and steadily, yet it runs deep. Karl-Friedrich Scheufele is a man dedicated to hard work and who takes the long view. In 1996, Chopard’s Co-President endowed the Maison with its own Manufacture. Since then, every creation to emerge has been carefully refined and matured. The comparison with prestige wine would not be an overreach for this devotee of grands crus.
HIDDEN BEAUTY
The Manufacture proceeds by sedimentation, capitalizing on its achievements and making its mark on Haute Horlogerie day after day – sometimes in unexpected ways. The L.U.C Qualité Fleurier is a case in point. It might easily be overlooked by a casual observer. At 39mm, with its three hands and steel case, this understated timepiece conceals remarkable craftsmanship that transcends mere aesthetics.
It is notably made of Lucent SteelTM, the Maison’s own alloy with a recycling rate of 80%, an achievement unparalleled in the industry given the production volume involved and a privilege enjoyed by Chopard that also has its own gold foundry. It is moreover the first time that a timepiece crafted in this metal has received Qualité Fleurier certification, which evaluates not only aesthetics but also the quality, shock resistance and accuracy of Swiss watches through extremely rigorous testing.
The latest addition to the L.U.C collection is therefore an authentic chronometer with a 65-hour power reserve. Inspired by the very first L.U.C Qualité Fleurier watch in 2005, its curved lines and welded lugs endow it with an undeniably elegant profile and optimal wearer comfort. The new L.U.C Qualité Fleurier is a timepiece for (very) discerning purists.
SAPPHIRE STRIKEWORK
The new L.U.C Full Strike follows a similar path. This timepiece can be best comprehended through the trajectory of its predecessors: it was first produced in ethical gold, carburized steel, platinum and sapphire. But Chopard also works with unconventional, high value-added materials. The ceramized titanium of this L.U.C Full Strike is therefore a logical follow-up.
Nonetheless, while most minute repeaters depend on the material of their case to propagate the sound, Chopard dispenses with this requirement as its movement uses sapphire gongs, making the crystal itself the resonator. The feat of crafting the gongs and crystal from a single block guarantees the perfect integrity of the resulting entity, thereby amplifying the sound to a degree unmatched by other minute repeaters.
The case material thus in no way alters the purity of the chime, enabling Chopard to concentrate on the sapphire’s robustness and scratch-resistance. As for the dial, the boldness of its verdigris color – a first for Chopard – recalls the aged brass of maritime instruments, of which Karl-Friedrich Scheufele is known to be a keen collector.
PEAK ARTISTIC CRAFTS
Only 20 examples of this minute repeater will be produced, which is not a lot, yet nonetheless more than the L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25 “Year of the Dragon” of which only eight were made. It unites the best of the two previous models: an understated mechanical design (a central minutes hand, jumping-hour aperture, eight-day power reserve), combined with a highly expressive dial.
It is in gold adorned with Grand Feu enamel, laser-sculpted to reveal a dragon whose body is painted and enhanced by a hand-engraved gold mane and moustache. The horns are inlaid with six types of wood. The bead and clouds are in mother-of-pearl. A dreamlike, technical odyssey, also certified bearing the Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark.
This article is an excerpt from the upcoming GMT XXL World Magazine, debuting at Geneva Watch Days August 29th. Pre-order your copy here.
