Inspired by cockpit instruments and aviation in general, the famous Bell & Ross BR 03 family of functional tool watches for professionals and civilians alike added a chronograph to the collection in 2006. Bell & Ross started as a university project in 1992 when two friends, Bruno Belamich and Carlos Rosillo, embarked on a rewarding watchmaking journey with an idea to create instrument timepieces inspired by all things military. Initially, they partnered with the German company Sinn Spezialuhren, well known for their utility watches. Bell & Ross’s cooperation with Sinn led to the creation of quite a few notable military-inspired and functional timepieces, like the Space 1 chronograph, the Type Démineur (bomb disposal) watch for the French Security Services, or the Hydro Challenger Professional with a depth rating of 11,000 meters. However, these were Sinn watches rebranded, with design input from Belamich and Rosillo. Things started to change for Bell & Ross when Chanel owners recognized the brand’s potential and the company bought a share in 1998, with additional buy-in in 2000.
Staying square
Consequently, Bell & Ross ended collaboration with Sinn in 2002 and built an autonomous production at the Chanel-owned G&F Châtelain Manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds. Three years later, in 2005, Bruno Belamich and Carlos Rosillo presented a watch that would make them famous — the BR 01 Instrument with a distinctive and bold design, which drew inspiration from aircraft cockpit instruments. The square 46mm BR 01 became one of the most recognized and iconic models from Bell & Ross, synonymous with the brand’s identity and philosophy of producing professional and functional timepieces. The success and popularity of the BR 01 have contributed to establishing Bell & Ross as a reputable watchmaker known for its expertise in creating aviation-inspired watches. It also holds importance for its influence on the broader watch design landscape and laid the foundation for many BR series to come, including the BR 03 Chrono.
The BR 03 series were launched by Bell & Ross in 2006, distinguished by a smaller, yet still perfectly square, 42mm case. The BR 03-94 chronograph line soon became part of the offering with two emblematic stainless steel timepieces: one with a black PVD coating and both with black dials and white elements. These two inaugural BR 03 chronographs continued to embrace the concept of the Bell & Ross watch as an instrument rather than merely a fashionable accessory. They exemplified the principle that a watch should be a functional tool, providing precise timekeeping and readability. The prominent hour-markers and large numerals, clean and clear dials — despite the small seconds subdial at 3 o’clock, 30-minute chronograph counter at 9 o’clock, along with a date aperture between 4 and 5 o’clock — along with luminous coating all enhanced legibility, making it easy to read the time at a glance.
Taking flight
One of the signature design elements — the presence of four prominent screws positioned at each corner of the square case — remained to serve not merely as a decorative feature but also a functional element contributing to the chronographs’ overall sturdiness and robustness. With ceramic materials being used by the aerospace and medical industry, they ultimately gained popularity with watchmakers for their exceptional qualities including their light weight, their ability to withstand high temperatures, exposure to acids, corrosion and erosion, as well as their biocomptability and wear-resistance. Bell & Ross was one of the companies to recognize the material’s potential and developed a specific manufacturing process to improve ceramic qualities. There was no surprise that Bell & Ross models previously released in steel with PVD treatment were upgraded with a ceramic case, the BR 03 Chrono included. Since its introduction in 2015, the BR 03-94 Black Matte chronograph, in a 42mm square matt black ceramic case, powered by the automatic BR-CAL.301 movement (ETA 2894-2 base) embodies a harmonious merging of form and function; it is a time instrument and an object of admiration that captures the spirit of exploration and adventure.
Bell & Ross BR 03 chronographs exhibit a distinctive, bold design language that sets them apart. Their unique instrument panel-inspired square case shapes make a powerful statement on the wrist. The attention to detail, harmonious colour schemes and luminescent materials ensure optimal legibility in any situation.
Bell & Ross BR 03 Chronograph
CASE: steel or black ceramic, water-resistant to 100m
DIMENSIONS: 42mm wide
MOVEMENT: BR-CAL.301, self-winding, 46h power reserve
FUNCTIONS: hours, minutes, small seconds, date, chronograph
DIAL: available in blue or black
STRAP: black rubber or fabric strap, pin buckle
LAUNCH YEAR: 2006
This year GMT Magazine and WorldTempus have embarked on the ambitious project of summarising the chronograph since the year 2000 in The Millennium Watch Book - Chronographs, a big, beautifully laid out coffee table book. This article is an extract. The Millennium Watch Book - Chronographs is available in both French and English here.
