Excerpt from The Millennium Watch Book - Chronographs, scheduled for publication this fall 2023.
Fabrice Gonet - Senior designer, Edge Design
Favorite Chronograph: Breguet Tradition chronograph 7077
Why: “I have always dreamed of one day owning a Breguet Tradition and, for me, the Tradition 7077 chronograph represents what I love about modern Haute Horlogerie. A visible mechanism with a lot of life, symmetry in terms of displays and a style inspired by tradition, by the expertise of our forefathers, with contemporary finishes and materials. The case is very classic and understated, yet it highlights the beauty of the mechanical movement. Its 44mm diameter does not correspond to today’s standards but sits perfectly on my wrist!”
François-Paul Journe - Master watchmaker, founder F.P.Journe
Favorite Chronograph: Patek Philippe Split-seconds Chronograph 5959P
Why: “This platinum monopusher split-seconds chronograph from Patek Philippe was equipped with a new caliber that was the thinnest in the world at the time. It made this model even more elegant. I love this kind of old-fashioned, attractive and very well-designed chronograph. It actually won the Complication Watch Prize at the 2005 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève."
Rexhep Rexhepi - Watchmaker, founder Akrivia
Favorite Chronograph: Patek Philippe Split-seconds Chronograph 5959P (black dial)
Why: “It is a chronograph inspired by a pocket watch, quite traditional in appearance, yet which turns out to be a very slim and dainty timepiece, whose exceptional character becomes apparent when you hold it in your hand. Upon turning it over, one is won over by the small and compact movement – brimming with horological content such as the split-seconds function and spectacular finishes – that appears to be rising up out of the case!”
Carole Forestier - Movements Director TAG Heuer
Favorite Chronograph: Richard Mille RM 65-01
Why: “This watch has been undergone over 10 years of accelerated testing. Its 5 Hz movement serves to drive a tenth-of-a-seconds display. Its titanium composition and TPT carbon case ensure a superlight watch suitable for sports wear.”
Fabrizio Buonamassa - Director Bulgari watch design center
Favorite Chronograph: Seiko Spacewalk Spring Drive SPS005
Why: “I like everything about this watch: firstly the aesthetics of its case, especially the limited series with the titanium bezel, but also the very pure dial and the graphic design of the hands, as well as a magnificent movement with beautiful finishes. It also represents a beautiful story because it was worn by one of the first space tourists, an American entrepreneur.”
Philippe Dufour - Master watchmaker
Favorite Chronograph: A. Lange & Söhne Datograph
Why: “During the rebirth of the A. Lange & Söhne at Baselworld, I was delighted to discover the Datograph (Calibre L951.1./ Ref 403.031). First of all, I was immediately impressed by the movement displayed in the showcase. I exclaimed: “Wow, what a beauty!” and then had the immense pleasure of actually holding it. I was thrilled by the precision of the functions and the lightness of the pushers. When I was able to explore the aesthetics and complexity of the movement under a magnifying glass, the perfect finishing of all the elements jumped out at me, as did a certain 3D effect. I was so impressed by this movement with its high added value stemming from the hand craftsmanship it involves that it became the first new watch I bought for myself. Making a flyback chronograph with an instantaneous minutes counter was the right choice. Its legibility, clarity, purity… In my humble opinion, this watch is a pure masterpiece!”
Jean-François Mojon - Watchmaker and administrator Chronode
Favorite Chronograph: A. Lange & Söhne Triple Split
Why: “While this is an eminently difficult choice, I have opted for the Triple Split chronograph from A. Lange & Söhne which I think brilliantly combines the highest technical level with its three split-seconds mechanisms, a striking design derived from the Datograph model, along with an extraordinary level of finishing and attention to detail."
Eric Giroud - Independent Designer
Favorite Chronograph: TAG Heuer Carrera 60th Anniversary
Why: “This watch has all the vintage spirit of the 1960s Heuer chronograph era, with all its modesty and strength. Everything is judged exactly right, whether in terms of proportions, information read-off and the different materials. I also appreciate the overall colors of this very beautiful watch!”
Denis Flageollet - Master Watchmaker, co-founder De Bethune
Favorite Chronograph: MB&F LM Sequential Evo
Why: “I consider that there have been three major developments in the history of wrist chronographs, which have subsequently merely been improved upon: the Valjoux 23 first served as a basis for all the major brands; then came the Cartier monopusher whose movement was made by Jaeger-LeCoultre; and the third invention took the form of the El Primero caliber that Zenith did well to relaunch later. I also found TAG Heuer’s approach to high frequency very interesting. Three-counter chronographs don’t amuse me, I’m still fascinated by 1950s models and monopusher variants. I nonetheless really liked the double chronograph concept designed by Stephen McDonnell for MB&F last year."
Jorg Hysek - Designer
Favorite Chronograph: De Bethune DB28 Maxichrono
Why: “While I have always had a clear preference for monopusher chronographs, this one is just a magnificent stylistic success embodying a perfect blend of modernism and classicism. I also think its movement is superb.”
Jean-Marc Wiederrecht - Founder of Agenhor
Favorite Chronograph: TAG Heuer Carrera automatic 39mm
Why: “The new version of the iconic TAG Heuer Carrera chronograph, with its glassbox-type crystal enveloping the tachymeter scale, is aesthetically very pleasing. This chronograph linked to the development of motor sports picks up all the original legibility characteristics and magnifies them, making this watch a consistent bestseller since its first high-profile appearance 60 years ago. It caused a sensation with the use of the first automatic chronograph movement and is now equipped with a new in-house-developed caliber distinguished by its remarkable reliability and performance. It brilliantly highlights the revival of this fine brand."
Marcus Eilinger - Designer
Favorite Chronograph: Omega Speedmaster “Speedy Tuesday” Ultraman
Why: “Since its creation, I see this watch as representing the ideal combination of elegance and sport. Its case is so attractive and its dial so nicely balanced as well as graphically accomplished with its modern numerals. It has changed very little since the beginning, even though I had a weakness for its former hands. Any modifications have been relevant, whether to improve the readability or the robustness of the timepiece, such as pusher or crown guards. It is one of the indisputable benchmark sports watch models.”
Giulio Papi - Technical Director Audemars Piguet Le Locle
Favorite Chronograph: Omega Speedmaster ’57 Co-Axial Master Chronometer 40.5 mm
Why: “In addition to its beautiful design, this Speedmaster has a co-axial escapement unique to Omega, excellent chronometry and a balance spring resistant to magnetic fields. Its impeccable overall quality is coupled with a very good quality/price ratio. The carefully calibrated dimensions, diameter and thickness ensures a comfortable fit on the wrist. Last but not least, I find its manual winding rather cool, as well as its date window.”
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