Not only are Louis Vuitton and La Fabrique du Temps reaching new heights in terms of Haute Horlogerie, but the brand is also taking its flagship Tambour collection to a new level.
As Louis Vuitton explains, "The new Tambour is accompanied by a new statement of identity. Lighter, more precious and more contemporary, its first 20 years of evolution and the brand's fierce determination to take it to the highest level now give it wings. Shapes, finishes and movement, the whole takes flight with the delicacy and beauty of a butterfly.”
First of all, the discerning observer is struck by the trimmer silhouette of the Tambour case and its integrated bracelet – a first for Louis Vuitton – as well as by the absence of lugs. The obvious importance devoted to design is reflected in the degree of finishing. The Tambour's transformation doesn't stop there, as an exclusive new automatic caliber propels it into a a whole new dimension of energy and performance.
Ergonomics and design
Immediately recognizable since its launch in 2002, its round case with inward-curving sides shaped like a drum or indeed a volcano and proudly bearing the 12 letters LOUIS VUITTON, has been streamlined and refined, in a unisex 40mm size. Visual pleasure is complemented by wearing comfort. The slender and curvaceous links of the integrated bracelet ensure a close, comfortable fit that could rival the softest leather strap. On the outside of the watch, every surface in contact with the skin is shaped to fit the body. Slightly curved to enhance its feel on the wrist, the caseback adapts to the natural curve of the forearm, which it hugs. Procuring similar tactile pleasure, the invisible closure of the triple-blade folding clasp sets the finishing touch to the pared-down overall design Even the winding of the crown is a sensual experience thanks to its gentle grooves.
The power of the design continues on the 3D watch face, whose millimeter-thickness in no way detracts from its surprising depth. The subtle concentric play of hour-markers creates a perfect symbiosis of form and function. The hour-markers set around the dial are designed to complement each other in terms of spatial balance, with recessed 5-minute markers, while the hours are indicated with appliques. This difference in the height of the hour-markers enables rapid reading, as light interacts in different ways between them, a variation that our eyes subconsciously register." Moreover, the diamond-polished gold hour-markers amplify this interaction with light, enabling optimal legibility even in the dark. Finally, the new openworked, faceted hands help to ensure the overall balance of the design.
Sophistication and finishing
Every possible appealing feature has thus been incorporated into the DNA of the new-generation Tambour, in order to win over aesthetes as well as devotees of demanding technical content. The above-mentioned play on textures gracing the display works its magic on the surface, along with the the predominant brushed finishes, the sandblasted bezel and the contrasts provided by the polished chamfers of the bracelet, the central links as well as the fluted (and naturally drum-shaped) crown. The hands are now in gold. While La Fabrique du Temps is located in Geneva, Louis Vuitton remains a French brand and naturally flaunts the name Paris on the dial. Is this a power play or a dual source of attraction? Sophistication is clearly the middle name of this watch.
Micro-sandblasted bridges, polished edges and a circular-grained mainplate are all nods to traditional movement decoration. Will Louis Vuitton win a prize with the Tambour in the Men’s category of this year's GPHG? Whatever the case, this ambitious model is equipped with the first exclusive automatic movement designed for the famous monogrammed brand. It boldly flaunts its collaboration with Le Cercle des Horlogers movement specialist. Together, they ensure that the strength of the brand is also reflected in the caliber, such as through the the micro-rotor adorned with stylized LVs, or the barrel featuring openwork motifs reminiscent of a Monogram flower. In terms of performance, the LFT023 caliber is Chronometer-certified, according to the rigorous standards of Timelab and the Geneva Observatory chronometer testing facility. For Jean Arnault, Director of Marketing and Development for Watches, "With this launch, we are opening a new chapter in the Maison's watchmaking history, by creating a watch with a strong horological credenitals that is identifiable with the Louis Vuitton style". As you can see, Louis Vuitton is thinking big for its new Tambour, and that's just the beginning.
