Museums of decorative arts and design – from the V&A in London and the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris to Berlin’s Kunstgewerbemuseum – have long served as treasure troves for those with a penchant for jewellery, fashion and accessories; exquisite objects that carry stories of consummate craft and creative vision.
These institutions can offer a tangible connection to society’s ever-changing tastes and the skill of artisans who have expertly transformed precious materials into functional works of art.
Now, imagine when a brand opens its own archives. By retracing foundational designs and patrimonial creations, such exhibitions allow visitors to better understand a Maison’s modern-day collections. They reveal the enduring codes, design principles and creative techniques that remain as relevant today as they were decades ago. For collectors and connoisseurs, it’s an opportunity to see legacy in action.
That’s exactly what Van Cleef & Arpels is currently offering at its Rue du Rhône boutique in Geneva. Hosted in the Salon 1906 – dedicated to the Maison's itinerant patrimonial exhibitions – and running until the end of March 2025, the “Precious Objects by Van Cleef & Arpels” exhibition is presenting a dazzling array of the brand’s archival treasures.
Evening bags, vanity cases and cigarette cases – each one evidencing Van Cleef & Arpels’ savoir-faire – are displayed alongside original product cards and promotional artwork. These are objects that transcend time, where precious materials meet fine mechanics, and elegance finds form thanks to consummate workmanship.
To discover these precious objects firsthand, we visited the boutique to uncover the stories, craftsmanship and enduring appeal behind these iconic pieces.
Evening Bags of the 1920s and 1930s
In the roaring 1920s and the glamorous 1930s, evening clutch bags became an essential accessory for women stepping into a new age of freedom and sophistication. Social changes, fuelled by the Jazz Age and a spirit of liberation, brought with them the desire for accessories that were functional yet still exquisite.
Van Cleef & Arpels rose to the occasion, creating bags that showcased the artistry of their time. These creations, often in silk or velvet, were embellished with sequins, cabochons or enamel motifs and featured intricate precious metal clasps adorned with diamonds, jade or coloured gemstones.
In fact, the bag clasps themselves were miniature masterpieces, combining precise mechanics with impeccable style, opening with a delicate click to reveal an equally refined interior.
Cigarette Cases of the 1920s and 1930s
The early 20th century saw cigarette cases become more than just functional objects. By the 1920s and ‘30s, they were symbols of glamour and refinement, often seen in the hands of stylish men and women attending the most exclusive gatherings. Smoking, at the time, was a social statement as well as an act of quiet indulgence.
Naturally, Van Cleef & Arpels turned these cases into objets d’art. Crafted from yellow gold and embellished with enamel, these cases evoke the elegance of the Art Deco period.
Geometric lines, rich contrasts and exquisite guilloche and gadroon patterns and polishing exemplify the skill and dexterity required to create such pieces. Each case was compact, stylish and had clever design touches, like one from 1926 whose sides resembled the binding on the spine of a luxury book.
The Magic of the Minaudière
In the 1930s, as women’s lives evolved, so too did their accessories. Enter the Minaudière, an exclusive Van Cleef & Arpels creation patented in 1933.
This vanity case was a response to the growing demand for compact, multifunctional accessories that could accompany women to social gatherings and soirées. A Minaudière was small yet sophisticated, containing compartments for powder, lipstick, a lighter and a comb.
Made from styptor, a platinum-like alloy, and complemented by yellow gold and diamonds or sapphires, these cases epitomised the spirit of the modern woman – elegant, practical and poised.
The pièce de résistance was a hidden watch, cleverly integrated into the design of the lid, concealed behind a small sapphire-set door. This ingenious touch allowed for the discreet checking of the time, in keeping with the social etiquette of the era.
Archival artwork from the 1930s accompanying these creations offers a direct reflection of their design. With clean lines and simple depictions of the Minaudière’s features, these graphics provide visitors with a nice snapshot of how these accessories were presented at the time.
Indian-Inspired Bags of the 1960s
The influence of Indian culture on Van Cleef & Arpels’ creations dates back to the early 20th century, when Indian artistry and materials inspired pieces for clients like Lady Daisy Fellowes.
By the 1960s, this connection deepened as the Arpels family embarked on several trips to India to source exceptional gemstones and explore the country’s rich artistic traditions.
The Maison’s Indian-inspired bags of the 1960s reflect this experience. These pochettes, crafted from fine silks, feature intricate embroidery with gold metal threads forming wide hexagonal mesh or quadrilobed motifs, within which stylised flowers bloom.
The designs were further augmented with cabochon gemstones, echoing the aesthetic of traditional Indian jewellery. This thoughtful cross-cultural dialogue enriched Van Cleef & Arpels' design language, resulting in opulent accessories that managed to honour artisanal traditions.
Butterfly Evening Bag of the 1970s
The 1970s marked a return to nature-inspired motifs, and Van Cleef & Arpels captured this spirit with its Butterfly evening bag. Crafted entirely from black velvet, the bag features a central butterfly motif delicately embroidered with gold threads. The butterfly’s outstretched wings are adorned with cabochons of emeralds, rubies and amethysts.
Van Cleef & Arpels has a long-standing tradition of incorporating butterfly imagery, dating back over a century, and it is beautifully expressed in this creation.
A Rare Opportunity
For decades, all these pieces have been carefully archived, stored behind closed doors to preserve their splendour. The “Precious Objects by Van Cleef & Arpels” exhibition at its Rue du Rhône boutique offers a rare opportunity to see them in person, either as an insightful diversion while viewing the brand’s latest collection or as a standalone cultural experience.
So, if you’re in Geneva in the New Year, head on down to the boutique and take an intimate journey through time, style and craftsmanship. For more information, please visit the Van Cleef & Arpels’ website.
Details:
“Precious Objects” by Van Cleef & Arpels
Location: Van Cleef & Arpels Boutique, 31 Rue du Rhône, Geneva, Switzerland
Dates: December 2, 2024 to March 29, 2025
Opening Hours: Monday to Friday, 10:00am to 6:30pm; Saturday, 10:00am to 5:00pm
Free entry without reservation
