In the 1970s, the watchmaking industry underwent a period of upheaval. While traditional mechanical watches struggled against the rise of quartz, watchmakers sought innovation. Inspired by the space race and automotive design, some creators developed radically different timepieces. This is how the concept of the "cap-watch" was born, characterized by a time display positioned on the side of the case. This configuration, for example, allows the wearer to read the time while driving without removing a hand from the wheel. A deep dive into a design where futurism and ingenuity meet.
The First Casquette-Watch
It all began in 1976 with Amida. The Swiss brand, founded in 1925, introduced the first casquette-watch: the Digitrend. This model completely broke away from the rest of the collection and was a bold response to the quartz crisis. Staying true to its DNA, the Digitrend was reissued in 2024. Its stainless steel case measures 39 mm in length and 33 mm in width, and its side display draws stylistic inspiration from speedometers of the era. It is powered by a Soprod automatic movement.
Girard-Perregaux Creates the Term "Casquette"
In this race for innovation, Girard-Perregaux also responded to the challenge by unveiling, in the same year, its own take on the concept with the Casquette. Presented at the Basel Fair, this watch adopted a minimalist design and stood out with its red LED display. At a time when the quartz crisis was shaking up the watchmaking industry, this model illustrated Girard-Perregaux's commitment to adapting to new technologies while maintaining a strong identity.
Girard-Perregaux reissued this iconic piece in 2022 with the Casquette 2.0. Its 42.4 mm x 33.6 mm case, made of black ceramic and grade 5 titanium, ensures both lightness and robustness. It features the GP3980 caliber, a high-precision quartz movement displaying hours, minutes, seconds, date, chronograph, and a second time zone. These functions are activated by pressing a button, optimizing battery life for up to two years. A unique detail: the "secret date" function allows the wearer to store an important date. Price: CHF 4,750.
Today, the term "Casquette" remains primarily associated with Girard-Perregaux, though it can refer to a broader category of watches with a similar design.
Two Modern Reinterpretations by MB&F
In 2012, MB&F revisited the concept with the HM5, inspired by 1970s supercars, particularly the Lamborghini Miura. Its zirconium case, a material valued for its lightness, measures 51.5 mm x 49 mm. The timepiece houses a modified Girard-Perregaux automatic movement, offering a 42-hour power reserve.
The use of an optical prism is based on Descartes' theory of light refraction: the prism corrects and magnifies the image of the hour discs, positioned parallel to the movement, to display the time orthogonally.
The watch also features adjustable shutters that regulate light intake and optimize readability according to lighting conditions.
Eleven years later, MB&F continued exploring the concept with the HM8 Mark 2, inspired by the Porsche 918 Spyder. Its 47 mm x 41.5 mm x 19 mm case is made of CarbonMacrolon® and grade 5 titanium, ultralight materials used in motorsports. It is powered by an automatic movement based on the Girard-Perregaux 3100 caliber, modified by MB&F. The time display again relies on the prism system, correcting the image of the hour discs. With the HM8, light takes a turn… just like a supercar speeding down the asphalt! Price: CHF 68,000.
From Girard-Perregaux to MB&F's ultra-modern reinterpretations, the casquette-watch embodies watchmaking innovation and resilience. Whether through the bold design of the HM5 and HM8 or the digital minimalism of the Casquette 2.0, these timepieces are a testament to a watch industry in constant evolution.
