Creating a watch is more difficult than one might initially assume, for two seemingly contradictory reasons. The first challenge is to design a timepiece that is immediately compelling, commanding attention at first glance, even from someone unfamiliar with the brand.
Second, the watch must seamlessly fit into the ongoing narrative of the workshop, maintaining its coherence while presenting itself as the next logical chapter in a story that’s been unfolding for nearly two decades. It’s a delicate balancing act – akin to writing a book that could be picked up and started from any page.
The piece that Louis Moinet is unveiling at the Geneva Watch Days epitomises this ambitious endeavour. The “Jules Verne Tourbillon To The Moon” aims to elicit a simple reaction: “wow”. To achieve this, Jean-Marie Schaller, founder and creative director of Ateliers Louis Moinet, has pulled out all the stops.
The power of three
Aesthetically, the creation showcases three intriguing features. First, a dial crafted from lunar meteorite, with each client given the opportunity to select its design from eight unique options offered by Louis Moinet.
Next is a broad peripheral and annular guilloché, a modern interpretation that breathes new life into this traditional technique. The application of a green hue further enhances the contemporary styling.
Finally, there’s a generously proportioned tourbillon at 6 o’clock. It’s a flying tourbillon, devoid of an upper bridge, giving it a delightful transparency. The off-centre cage, an unconventional geometric design, provides an elegant canvas for the escapement wheel to express itself.
Embracing heritage
These distinctive features are immediately apparent, without requiring any understanding of Louis Moinet’s history to appreciate the piece. However, brand connoisseurs will value how well it fits into the brand story. Mineral dials are a hallmark of Louis Moinet’s universe, particularly in the form of extraterrestrial minerals and meteorites. They are embedded in the brand’s DNA, given that the company’s namesake, Louis Moinet, was acclaimed for his astronomical instruments. His compteur de tierces, the first chronograph in history, was one of many.
Assertive modernity
Colour also plays a significant role in Louis Moinet’s creations. The Atelier has consistently explored a broad chromatic spectrum, particularly in its Memoris collection.
The modernity of the timepiece’s decorative elements is also evident, something Jean-Marie Schaller has always emphasised. While respectful of the great watchmaker’s centuries-old legacy, Schaller has consistently championed a modern aesthetic for 21st-century collectors. The indices are vibrant and dynamic, their arrangement around the dial reminiscent of a celestial compass rose.
The tourbillon, designed by trusted partner Concepto (previously seen in the Impulsion), is decidedly contemporary, as is its impressive 96-hour power reserve, equating to four full days. Such a feature is rare, with only a few examples to be found at IWC, Hublot, Franck Muller and Cyrus.
The Jules Verne Tourbillon “To the Moon’’ will be limited to eight pieces, each representing one of the eight variations of the lunar meteorite gracing its dial. Two additional pieces featuring lapis lazuli and opal will soon follow.
