While the watchmaking community has long been familiar with the Only Watch auction (2005–2024), the fledgling Time for Art sale is still making a name for itself beyond insider circles. Its concept is refreshingly straightforward: an auction where 100% of the proceeds go towards promoting contemporary art. The sale is a joint effort between the Swiss Institute (a non-profit Swiss art promoter based in New York) and the Phillips auction house, which will conduct the bidding.
The inaugural Time for Art took place in 2022 and featured 17 brands. This year’s event on 7 December has expanded to include 25 watchmakers, among them Armin Strom, Breitling, Bulgari, Carl F. Bucherer, Chanel, Chopard, Czapek, Maurice Lacroix, Reservoir, Ressence and Zenith.
The diversity of horological offerings is striking, and welcome. Time for Art gives participating brands free rein to create timepieces that truly reflect their identity. While each maison brings its own flavour, two broad approaches have emerged.
Horological virtuosity
The first approach prioritises technical expertise. Here, there’s no artistic eccentricity; the focus is purely horological. The watch speaks for itself, without the need for aesthetic embellishment. Breitling provides the perfect example, with its magnificent Navitimer B19 Chronograph 43 Perpetual Calendar 140th Anniversary. Featuring a green dial, this piece probably represents the last opportunity to acquire a 140th anniversary Navitimer QP – all 140 pieces revealed this summer have already sold out.
Armin Strom follows a similar strategy, showcasing the expressive mechanics of its Mirrored Force Resonance with a lapis lazuli finish that enhances its technical appeal.
Creative disruption
The second approach, adopted by the majority of participating watchmakers, favours artistic expression. This group offers a vibrant creative medley. Ressence, true to its minimalist DNA, presents the whimsical Type 1.3 designed by Shantell Martin, bearing the simple message, “Enjoy Life”.
Chanel’s Boy-Friend watch is similarly relaxed, featuring an unusually playful pop art rendition of Coco Chanel herself.
Bulgari also puts drawing centre stage with its Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Sketch. The dial reproduces Fabrizio Buonamassa’s freehand pencil strokes, sketching the outlines of the manufacture chronograph.
Geneva-based Czapek combines the talents of engraver Michèle Rothen and dial maker Metalem, who have etched the inner workings of the Antarctique model onto the dial surface made from a proprietary white gold alloy, creating a captivating trompe l’œil skeleton effect.
