As part of our Total Immersion at Vacheron Constantin, I had the pleasure of being an intern for the day in the heart of the manufacture’s watchmaking workshops to assemble part of one of the latest retrograde movements, the Calibre 2460 R31R7/3. This is the 4 Hertz movement that powers the brand-new platinum Patrimony Retrograde Day-Date timepiece that was released during Watches and Wonders and caused quite a sensation with its elegant day-date display against a gorgeous salmon-coloured dial
Watchmaking for beginners
Under the watchful eye of the head of the grandes complications workshop, and with my very own watchmaker’s coat, embroidered with my name no less, I have to say that I felt quite the part. My tasks were to learn how to manipulate both horological tweezers and screwdrivers and to put together a puzzle of pieces so small that I would need a magnifying glass to have any chance of success.
The first challenge was getting my bearings with the watchmaker’s loupe as my hands seemed to enter a new dimension with my sight magnified by 10. It was almost like I had lost control of all hand/eye coordination. The easiest way to describe it is like coming home after a drunken night out and trying to get your key in the front door!
Handling the tools
The next challenge was to pick up the individual watch components with the tweezers and place them in position. How hard could it possibly be, right? Well, with many of the components measuring just a few millimeters, you rapidly start to appreciate the patience and precision that watchmakers need to have to meticulously assemble movements. This part I sort of managed with a little assistance.
Whoops! Where did it go?
Then it was time for the screws. Well, I think I lost more than I managed to control, and tightening them was surely causing our watchmaker physical pain as my screwdriver kept missing the groove and ended up scratching the movement. It was at this stage that I voluntarily gave up the task, admitting defeat. Relinquishing my position at the watchmaker’s bench, I was then able to watch as my teacher swiftly corrected my mistakes and restored order in just a few seconds.
Calibre 2460 R31R7/3
Adding the 22-karat gold openworked oscillating weight, which gives approximately 40 hours of power reserve, I could see that the design was inspired by the Maltese cross emblem that has been made famous by the Maison. The bridges were finished with hand-polished angles and straight-graining, a technique that consists of perfectly smoothing the component flanks by hand. The screws were also meticulously polished, except for the ones that I had massacred, while the mainplate was circular-grained on both sides and the bridges were adorned with the Côtes de Genève motif.
It was an exquisite movement to behold and one that should really never have been left in my incapable hands, but I thoroughly enjoyed the experience. I wish I could say the same for the watchmaker, I fear he may still be recovering from the encounter!
