Everybody knows about 316L steel and 904L steel. There is now such a thing as the steel 222. We're not talking about a new alloy, but rather an alliance. One that stems from the confluence of the Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 and a case and bracelet both made of steel. Of the exclusivity of this model's first iteration, made of gold from head to toe, and a more accessible price threshold. Of the idiosyncratic geometry of this vintage piece and the gray and matte sheen of a non-precious metal.
For those who need to catch up, let's go back to 2022. Vacheron Constantin redesigned one of its 1970s timepieces, who logically found its way to the Historiques collection. It was the youngest and one of the more atypical models to enter said line. The 1977 original design, penned by Jorg Hysek, was ever so slightly updated while maintaining its most defining features: an integrated case and bracelet architecture, a fixed fluted bezel, the brand's logo stamped on the 5 o'clock lug and the elongated lozenge shape of the bracelet's central link.
Back then, the 222 was already very thin. And so is the new one, even though it's not its most salient point.... on paper. Because once it landed on people's wrists, its 37 mm in diameter combined with a 7.95 mm thickness made it a red-hot item. Especially for those lovers of all things vintage and on the smaller side.
The launch of the steel 222 is the first in a long series, impatiently awaited by watch aficionados, as 2025 will see the celebration of Vacheron Constantin's 270th anniversary. It may not be a multiple of 50, but the number certainly is a major occasion for the brand, and they're going to make it a big thing. In that context, the decision to launch the steel 222 deserves a little bit of explaining.
The 2022 222 was launched in a very high-end frame of mind. For a brand as classical and low key as Vacheron, the arrival of a yellow gold case, bracelet and dial piece came as a surprise. But back then, the zeitgeist was all about the top end of luxury and it had to show. As a result, the 222 was met with enthusiasm, to the point where demand was largely...not met.
We're now three years later and the brand had two options. Option 1, cranking it up even further, by releasing another previous metal version of the 222, thus placing it just as out of reach as the previous installment. Option 2, fan service. The brand decided to give the fans what they wanted: a 222 that's lighter, easier to wear, darker, with a dial in the one color that everybody wants, i.e. blue, and more affordable. Agreed, it takes some convincing to see a 32,000 francs timepiece as being affordable, but this is Vacheron Constantin we're talking about. This is as low, or as good, as it can get. Until the day when, who knows, the brand decides to release the 222 in full platinum gear, a move that would not be surprising seeing how they've made that metal one of their specialties. And that move would be sure to spin some collectors' heads.
