To find a good collector’s piece, the first instinct is often to look at auctions and second-hand options. And, while this approach is necessary, it’s not always sufficient. Sometimes, tomorrow’s collectors’ items are still hidden within current collections. That’s why it’s very useful to combine both perspectives, by looking at new as well as pre-owned pieces.
Malte: exquisite and underrated
This is the case with Vacheron Constantin. Alongside the star performers such as the Overseas, Patrimony or Traditionnelle in the current collection sits the Malte line. For several years, it has regularly been brought back to centre stage through capsule editions, the Excellence Platine series. However, some of the permanent models are potential collectors’ items – and they’re often the simplest ones.
This applies to the Malte in rose gold with hours, minutes and small seconds. It’s one of the rare contemporary watches with a shaped movement (where the calibre is designed according to the shape of the case) and it is certified with the Geneva Seal. It was modified slightly in 2012 and has not changed since, which is a testament to the perfection of its lines. It’s a safe bet that Vacheron Constantin will give it a new lease of life one day – just as Breguet is seriously considering relaunching the Malte’s cousin, the Heritage. This will inevitably bring the current models back into the spotlight.
Luxury concierge service
Vacheron Constantin also offers a rather unique service, Les Collectionneurs, that deserves serious consideration. The concept is simple: the manufacture acquires some of its own vintage pieces, authenticates them, restores them, and puts them back on sale. You just need to keep a close eye on the company website. Some boutiques also offer a similar service from time to time. These opportunities are rare but precious, as the manufacture only deals with top-tier collectibles. However, it guarantees you will get a prestigious heritage piece, professionally restored, complete with certificate of authenticity.
The mystery of Harmony
The Harmony was the last major release signed by Vacheron Constantin’s former CEO, Juan-Carlos Torres, at the SIHH, predecessor of Watches and Wonders, in 2015. Torres personally invested a great deal in the launch, rightly emphasising the perfection of its lines. The movements were also the pinnacle of refinement, featuring dual time and tourbillon modules. There was even an ultra-thin split-seconds chronograph, produced for the 260th anniversary of the maison. Some were decorated with Fleurisanne engravings, others showcased a rare type of oscillating mass that allowed the entire movement to be seen. They all came in gold or platinum cases.
The Harmony was the utmost in technical and aesthetic achievement. But, alas, the market didn’t want to know. The fashion was starting to turn to 1970s sport-chic, to the benefit of the perennial Overseas, Royal Oak and Nautilus. The mechanical perfection and aesthetic purity of the Harmony collection were not enough to turn the tide, and it vanished from the current collections as quickly as it had arrived.
This is probably one of the most glaring contradictions of a market in constant pursuit of authenticity: it failed to recognise that the Harmony was its perfect embodiment. Most models have lost 30% to 40% of their value, which means that any rare second-hand examples that come up for sale make it possible to approach horological perfection in a relatively affordable way, at least for the time being.
