Dubai Watch Week is unusual for the number of independent brands showing there; the vast majority, in fact. One, however, was missing. Geneva-born and fiercely independent in thought and deed, that brand is ArtyA. Now, finally, Yvan Arpa, Arty A’s founder, is in Dubai for the first time this November. And he hasn’t come empty-handed.
For a number of years now, Arpa has led his brand along two converging paths: in-house movements and sapphire cases. Both have specific characteristics and the Curvy Purity Tourbillon NanoSaphir Emerald captures them all.
Shine like an emerald
The sapphire case leaps out, firstly for its rich emerald green. The comparison with the precious gem is amply warranted.
Coloured sapphire has become a hallmark of ArtyA and this vibrant green appears to be a first. Its secret lies with the perfect mix of translucency and depth. The green is sufficiently clear to allow light to pass through it and sufficiently dense to make its mark. This could have been a pale, watered-down green. It isn’t. It has presence and intensity.
Like father, like son
The second reason this case commands attention is its shape. For the past two decades, ArtyA has been working with tonneau cases, amassing considerable experience in the process. This has been passed on to Yvan Arpa’s son, Jérémie Arpa, designer of the Curvy Purity Tourbillon NanoSaphir Emerald.
The curves flow like liquid. Crystal and rehaut connect seamlessly with the case, which opens wide onto the movement. The crown is cleverly positioned at 12 o’clock, so as not to interrupt this smooth line. My one and only qualm concerns the angular lugs. I would have preferred a softer, more rounded form in keeping with the curved design. Others will find they add peps. It all comes down to personal preference.
XXL tourbillon
Next, the movement, revealed in all its beauty. The monochrome finish makes a strong counterpoint to the emerald green. Special mention for the hand finishing, the many interior angles and alternating polished and brushed surfaces. Note the tourbillon bridge at 6 o’clock, its geometry a distinguishing feature of the brand. To be honest, it would be hard not to notice it, given the 17.2mm diameter of the tourbillon which, not quite up there with the giga tourbillons at Franck Muller or Kerbedanz, sits in the same league as a Greubel Forsey.
T time
A cornerstone, these past three years, of ArtyA’s in-house strategy, the movement’s innovative layout means it can be “read” in two ways: horizontally, with the time display aligned with its power supply, twin parallel-mounted barrels, in the upper half, and vertically, with the time display and, underneath, the tourbillon that regulates it. The result is a novel “T-shaped” arrangement, also explored by the Armin Strom “One Week” but in a more conventional manner, rotated 90 degrees and with central hands. On a last note, the Curvy Purity Tourbillon NanoSaphir Emerald delivers an above-average power reserve and will run for 72 hours on a full wind.
One of a kind
The watch shown at Dubai Watch Week is unique, as are many of ArtyA’s creations, although those who are familiar with the brand know they can approach Yvan Arpa for their own model in a similar vein.
Anyway, ArtyA doesn’t really think in terms of collections, catalogue, capsules and limited editions – too restrictive for Yvan Arpa’s creative mind. The Curvy Purity Tourbillon NanoSaphir Emerald is a unique piece but more than anything it is a demonstration of what ArtyA can and will do. One we are delighted to finally see at Dubai Watch Week.
