Hermès has long been celebrated for its ability to merge technical prowess with artistry, and the new Arceau Robe Légère is no exception.
Inspired by French artist Théo de Gueltzl's Robe Légère embroidered silk scarf design, this limited-edition timepiece pays homage to the brand’s equestrian roots while showcasing traditional watchmaking and gem-setting techniques.
At the heart of this creation is a rearing horse, crafted in meticulous detail with silver leaf and the ancient art of paillonné enamelling, shimmering against a deep navy backdrop.
Harnessing its Heritage
Hermès began in 1837 as a harness and saddle workshop in Paris, serving Europe’s noblemen. Horses, saddlery and equestrian themes have since become integral to its identity, appearing across the company’s various creations, including timepieces.
Lately, the maison has drawn on the beauty of its iconic silk scarves to inspire the dials of its Arceau watches. Standout examples include the Arceau Wow! and Arceau Costume de Fête.
Now, the Arceau Robe Légère continues this trend, transforming de Gueltzl’s intricate scarf design into a stunning union of equine elegance and time-honoured craftsmanship.
The Art of Paillonné Enamel
Creating the dial of this Arceau is a painstaking process, demanding precision and patience. The process begins with the application of a dark enamel base – ground coloured glass mixed with natural oils – layered and fired to lock in its lustrous tone.
The horse’s floral coat, made of individually cut silver leaves and flowers, is applied to the enamel canvas under a microscope. Wafer-thin silver spangles are then embedded, layer by layer, before multiple firings in the kiln seal the composition under translucent enamel, achieving a dazzling, almost ethereal depth.
The result is a dial that seems alive, its silver accents catching and reflecting light with each flick of the wrist. It’s a testament to the skill of Hermès’ artisans, who bring the motif to life with every tiny detail.
Equestrian Elegance
Framing this exquisite dial is a 38mm white gold case in the iconic Arceau design, first conceived by Henri d’Origny in 1978. Its asymmetrical stirrup-shaped lugs evoke Hermès’ equestrian heritage, while the bezel is adorned with 71 brilliant-cut diamonds, adding a subtle sparkle to complement the dial’s shimmer.
Turn the watch over, and the sapphire crystal display back reveals the Hermès H1912 calibre, made in collaboration with Vaucher Manufacture in which Hermès holds a stake.
This slim Swiss automatic movement operates at 4Hz and offers a robust 50-hour power reserve. Its bridges and rotor are decorated with the brand’s signature "H" motifs.
Details That Endure
To complete the composition, Hermès pairs the Arceau Robe Légère with an abyss-blue alligator strap. Handcrafted with the brand’s renowned leather expertise, the strap mirrors the deep tones of the enamel dial, creating a refined, harmonious aesthetic.
Limited to just 24 pieces, the Arceau Robe Légère exemplifies Hermès’ mastery in reinterpreting designs across its creations and collections, while neatly embodying a tagline the maison has employed in recent years: “Art imitates life.”
To find out more, visit Hermès’ website.
