Did you know that the word “mask” comes from Italian? It led to two lexical branches: the mask we’re familiar with, meaning a disguise, and a lesser-known definition, still used in some dialects of Italian, that means a witch, spectre or demon. Jaquet Droz has recently embraced this latter meaning for its Tourbillon Skelet Saphir – Bushidō.
Be afraid!
The piece has just been unveiled. In line with the “Disruptive Legacy” strategy championed by the house’s CEO, Alain Delamuraz, it is unique and singularly powerful.
The aim of this creation is to reproduce the effect of a Japanese warrior’s mask on their adversaries: terror, dread and fear, but also reverence for the samurai code of honour and its ancient traditions. To achieve this balance, the Bushido warrior’s mask borrows graphic elements from the gods and demons of the Japanese pantheon.
Murano glass bead setting: a first
The mask’s aesthetic realisation called upon the special talents of Jaquet Droz’s artisans. The mask is a gold applique, engraved and polished by hand, with a hand-painted centre and translucent enamel horns.
No surface of the mask is flat. The engraving in the red gold base makes the eyes, nose and mouth stand out, highlighted in gold. A notable first for Jaquet Droz, and probably for watchmaking in general, is the setting of Murano glass beads. The mask’s fixing screws are skilfully concealed within the decoration.
A unique sapphire case
The mask asserts a strong visual presence, appearing to float just beneath the sapphire crystal. The sapphire case plays a crucial role in the design. First, it’s a 100% Swiss Made construction – a rarity worth highlighting, given that sapphire cases for Swiss watches are often made in more… tropical regions. Jaquet Droz takes pride in its truly 100% Swiss Made approach, and rightly so.
Second, this 42 mm case is screwless – also highly unorthodox. Most “100% sapphire” cases use screwed inserts to hold the back, front crystal and caseband together. Jaquet Droz stands alone in pressing the case components together without screws or glue. This requires fiendishly precise tolerances to ensure water resistance. The finish too is a testament to human patience and skill.
A movement as enduring as a warrior
At the heart of this case beats a movement dear to Jaquet Droz: the self-winding 2625 SQ (Skeleton) calibre. It embodies the house’s disruptive signature, combining classic tourbillon fundamentals with cutting-edge watchmaking technology. It features a silicon escapement and an impressive 8-day power reserve – not unique but certainly rare. This movement, shared with Blancpain, has few equals save for those found in Bovet, Daniel Roth or Patek Philippe timepieces.
Two hand-painted red hands measure the passing time, suspended between war and peace, East and West, tradition and modernity, dread and fascination. This “Disruptive Legacy” is perhaps more relevant now than ever.
