Pine, emerald, forest, neon, lime or mint? The beauty of colour lies in its seemingly infinite variations, each shade perceived differently depending on who’s looking. Here’s one last green for the road: how about hunter green?
This is precisely what Urwerk offers with its recent UR-100V “Hunter Green”. What’s new? Nothing – apart from the colour. Martin Frei, artistic director and co-founder of Urwerk, puts it bluntly: “We’re having fun with this collection, constantly rediscovering it through new expressions.” Urwerk is offering a final refreshing pause before – we can assume – unveiling some genuine innovations at Watches and Wonders (31 March – 6 April).
Decoding the name
To understand the UR-100V Magic T “Hunter Green”, we need to dissect its name. UR-100 is Urwerk’s classic satellite collection, with two unique features: auxiliary counters. The first shows 555 kilometres – the distance travelled by the Earth during a 20-minute rotation on its own axis. The second displays 35,740 kilometres – the distance of Earth’s orbit around the Sun in the same timeframe.
The “V” indicates that the watch is powered by a Vaucher movement, which has replaced the Zenith movements used previously. “Magic T” denotes the use of titanium (“T”) with Urwerk’s signature finish: satin-brushed, then micro-blasted. This unusual dual finish is particularly difficult to achieve on titanium, whose extreme hardness makes decoration a challenge. The result is a subtle pastel sheen – a welcome departure from titanium’s typically matte appearance. Lastly, “Hunter Green” is a relatively common though non-standardised shade of green, with multiple possible variations.
Familiar, yet unique
The UR-100V Magic T “Hunter Green” is quintessentially Urwerk, representing both continuity and innovation. As Urwerk approaches its 30th anniversary (in 2027), its legitimacy is beyond question; it’s a reputed independent brand and a valued member of the watchmaking establishment (although co-founders Felix Baumgartner and Martin Frei would probably object to the term “establishment” they can’t really argue with the facts).
And yet Urwerk has succeeded in maintaining its uniqueness and freshness. No other brand can match its expertise in satellite displays. The founding duo have been at the helm for three decades, while most large groups change their CEOs every three to five years. Urwerk continues to invent new displays and complications, perpetually modernising the satellite display. It’s gradually becoming a horological classic (another term Baumgartner and Frei continue to resist, but it’s true).
The UR-100V Magic T “Hunter Green” embodies all these qualities. It’s a piece for mature collectors, from an equally mature brand. It breathes new life into the brand and the model with intelligence and creativity, without revolutionising its now-solid foundations. It’s not a keystone piece – either for the market or for Urwerk. Yet its absence would create a void no other model could fill. Few watches can claim such distinction.
