Watchmaking doesn’t settle for approximations. The balance between simplicity and refinement demands clean lines and sharp design. At Watches & Wonders, brands and manufacturers offered a masterclass in craftsmanship—saying more with less. Many of them expressed their vision through minimalist designs without sacrificing their brand identity. One element unified all these creations: a small seconds display on the dial.
Perfect balance: the key asset
Name? Calatrava. Reference? 6196P-001. Patek Philippe embraces a timeless style that transcends fashion. This piece is rooted in the eternal, combining a rose gold opaline dial with a platinum case. The layout is pared down to the essentials: classic hands sweep across an hour track made solely of indexes. Echoing this refined setup, the small seconds subdial blends into the background—letting the function shine without distraction.
In a similar spirit, Vacheron Constantin’s new Traditionnelle Manual models feature an appealing play of textures. Whether encased in rose gold or platinum—with matching hands depending on the version—the silvered dial’s decoration enhances the refined personality of each piece. Inspired by the Maltese Cross, a motif dear to the Geneva-based brand, the straight lines of the design are softened by the round small seconds, which fits seamlessly into the railway-style minute track.
Thoughtful material and finish choices also elevate a timepiece’s allure. Rose gold adds extra appeal to Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds. The finely textured dial, iconic rectangular Art Deco case with gadroons, and Milanese mesh bracelet reinforce its status as a timeless icon. The warm tones radiating from each detail highlight the chic soul of the small seconds.
Complexity in service of simplicity
To preserve an airy dial layout, the small seconds subdial can discreetly host complications—like the one on the L.U.C Quattro Mark IV. Chopard elegantly incorporates a date display into the small seconds area, ensuring maximum clarity. Behind this apparent simplicity is a powerful COSC-certified chronometer calibre. Its four barrels offer an impressive nine-day power reserve. Here, performance and elegance coexist in harmony.
Hermès’s Cut Le temps suspendu embodies the brand’s playful approach to time. Its dial features a unique layout: the small seconds, set off-center at 4 o’clock, integrates into an hour ring marked by custom-designed numerals. Besides its position, it also stands out with its reverse rotation. When the Le temps suspendu complication is activated, the hour and minute hands pause at 12. The small seconds hand continues moving—becoming the only visible marker of time’s passage.
While the small seconds subdial reflects a classic aesthetic that resists fleeting trends, it still leaves plenty of room for creative expression.
