All watch brands have their own codes. But few have an identity-defining color linked to their heritage. Louis Vuitton is one of them. The French trunk maker has long been associated with the two brown tones that adorn its trunks and monogram, a legacy spanning over a century.
Saffron Sobriety
These chromatic registers are the foundation for two of the three new Tambour watches presented today. The first is the most precious. Its case is crafted in yellow gold and set with 48 sapphires. Their color is neither ordinary nor random: they are saffron-colored, the shade closest to Vuitton’s monogram leather. Another distinctive feature: while the bezel is indeed adorned with gems, as is customary in watchmaking, they are not set on the top surface but on the side. This makes the setting more discreet, almost a secret for the wearer alone.
On the dial, the saffron sapphire makes another appearance but shares the spotlight with artisanal craftsmanship. The minute track consists of 12 onyx segments, while the central part is also in onyx, encircling 12 sapphire-set hour markers. The design is completed with a small seconds subdial at 6 o’clock. The interplay of hues is exquisitely complex. The combination of deep black and yellow gold is seen in select pieces (Cartier, Chanel), but the inclusion of saffron sapphire as a binding element is rare, if not unique. Its placement on the bezel’s flank further sets it apart. A refined style exercise, limited to just 30 pieces.
A Focus on Ceramic
The second variation on Vuitton tones takes an entirely different route, focusing on material innovation. This new Tambour is crafted from Vuitton brown ceramic, with a dial featuring rose gold hands and indices. The bracelet is also made of ceramic, articulated with rose gold inserts.
In both the case and bracelet, the watch’s technical finesse is evident in its finishes. Ceramic is prized for its resistance to shocks and scratches, but as a result, it is notoriously difficult to work with. Nonetheless, Vuitton has endowed this Tambour with an impressive array of finishes. The bezel alone features three: a circular satin-finished top surface, polished edges, and sandblasted sides engraved with the 12 polished letters of "LOUIS VUITTON." This 40 mm piece is both understated and distinguished, not strictly limited, but its production and finishing process naturally restrict it to only a few pieces per year.
A Platinum Disc
For its third creation, Louis Vuitton takes a more dazzling approach. The case and bracelet are made of platinum. But the preciousness does not stop there—this model also features lateral gem-setting on its bezel and "rainbow" hour markers. Several dozen green, blue, violet, pink, fuchsia, orange, and yellow sapphires form a resplendent rainbow.
The 40 mm case is just 8.3 mm thick, striking a balance that prevents excessive ostentation. Limited to only 50 pieces, this new Tambour hides a secret: discreetly embedded in the case back, a 1.6 mm saffron sapphire signifies the presence of platinum—much like the diamond at 6 o’clock on all platinum Patek Philippe watches.
