When it comes to watch certifications, names like the Geneva Seal and COSC are often held up as the ultimate marks of quality. These stamps of approval signify excellence in craftsmanship and/or precision, earning them recognition among collectors and enthusiasts worldwide.
But there’s another certification – less widely known but every bit as prestigious – that elevates select watches to a level of distinction that’s hard to rival: the Fleuritest.
For many connoisseurs, a Fleuritest-certified timepiece represents the pinnacle of horological validation. And Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud – the ultra-high-end watch brand inspired by the eponymous 18th-century Swiss horologist – stands proudly at the forefront of this rigorous evaluation process.
The Birth of the Fleuritest
The Fleuritest is part of a certification programme created by the Fleurier Quality Foundation (FQF), an initiative spearheaded by some of the most illustrious names in Swiss watchmaking, including Chopard and Parmigiani Fleurier.
While the Foundation was established in 2001 to define technical and aesthetic quality criteria in harmony with the finest principles of haute horlogerie, the official launch of the FQF certification took place in September, 2004.
It was established in Fleurier, a town in Switzerland’s Val-de-Travers region with deep roots in watchmaking. Indeed, Fleurier’s horological legacy dates back centuries as a birthplace of fine timepieces exported to markets worldwide. The Foundation sought to encapsulate the town’s rich tradition while introducing a modern, rigorous standard for evaluating watches.
Its aim was not to replace existing certifications like the Geneva Seal (Poinçon de Genève in French) or COSC (Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres) but to create a holistic evaluation that combines technical precision, aesthetic excellence and durability.
Chopard and its sister brand, Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud are the last maisons that are actively submitting timepieces for Fleuritest certification – a sign of their commitment to unmatched quality.
What Makes the Fleuritest Different
The Fleuritest stands out by subjecting fully assembled watches to real-world testing conditions, unlike COSC certification, which evaluates uncased movements, or the Geneva Seal, whose primary focus is on origin and aesthetics. This end-to-end evaluation ensures the finished product delivers impeccably across five demanding criteria. These are as follows…
Swiss Seal
The Fleuritest guarantees authenticity by requiring that all components of a timepiece, including the movement, are 100 per cent Swiss-made from conception and production to assembly and testing of the uncased watch. This stringent standard applies exclusively to the “watch head”, which comprises the case, display and complete movement.
Every stage of production must take place on Swiss soil, from transforming raw materials into semi-finished components to decoration processes like bevelling, polishing and circular graining.
Even assembly stages such as pre-fitting, escapement fitting, adjustment and casing must be carried out in Switzerland. While raw materials can originate internationally, their final transformation must occur locally, ensuring a strong connection to Swiss savoir-faire.
Aesthetic Excellence
The Fleuritest ensures each movement is a masterpiece of craftsmanship. To qualify, movements must feature exclusive decorative finishes approved by a panel of experts in watchmaking research, teaching and production.
High-quality materials such as steel, ceramics and precious alloys are an essential starting point. Visible components must showcase refined decoration, with black-polished steel parts, bevelled and polished edges on bridges, and file-drawn lines where possible. Processes carried out in bulk are not permitted.
COSC Certification
The movement itself must already be COSC-certified, demonstrating its ability to keep time with an average accuracy of at least -4/+6 seconds per day. This ensures that the foundation of the watch meets minimum chronometric standards before proceeding to the next evaluations.
Reliability with Chronofiable
The Chronofiable test subjects watches to a rigorous simulation of long-term wear, exposing them to shocks, magnetic fields and accelerated ageing. This involves multiple stages, including testing pull-and-push forces on the crown stem, the durability of push buttons and bezels, and water resistance.
Precision in Real-Life Conditions
The Fleuritest is the ultimate evaluation for a finished watch. Over a 24-hour period, a robotics simulator replicates a nycthemeral cycle – a full day of alternating active and resting phases – mimicking natural wrist movements. Throughout the test, an artificial vision system with GPS synchronisation analyses the watch’s performance with extreme precision.
To pass, the watch must maintain accuracy within a demanding 0 to +5 seconds per day. Upon successful completion, each watch is issued a certificate detailing its unique movement and case numbers, officially marking it as "FQF, La Haute Horlogerie certifiée”.
What the Fleuritest Means for Watch Collectors
Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud assures collectors that no fewer than three of its highly coveted models undergo the rigorous Fleuritest: Chronomètre FB 2RE, with its stunning grand feu enamel dial and the pairing of a remontoir d’égalité with a fusee-and-chain mechanism; Chronomètre FB RS, a skeletonised regulator that combines a tourbillon with a fusee-and-chain transmission; and Chronomètre FB 3SPC, distinguished by its mesmerising cylindrical hairspring.
It is almost unheard of for watches of this pedigree – at the very pinnacle of haute horlogerie – to carry COSC certification, let alone meet the exhaustive standards of the Fleuritest, a certification representing total Swissness, superlative decoration, exceptional reliability and uncompromising precision proven in simulated real-world conditions.
This unique level of testing and certification is an aspect of Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud that should not be overlooked. In fact, collectors can confidently factor this badge of honour into the overall value and desirability of each piece.
What’s more, you can’t help but feel that Ferdinand Berthoud himself – a dedicated champion of precision and master of aesthetic refinement – would have wholeheartedly approved of the Fleuritest and the unparalleled level of validation it represents.
For more information, please visit the Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud and Fleurier Quality Foundation websites.
