What were the reactions to the new Bulgari models at Geneva Watch Days?
Generally speaking, we're very satisfied, especially with our star model, the Octo Roma Grande Sonnerie Tourbillon that literally reinvents the chiming watch. For the first time in watchmaking history, it's not Big Ben's chimes that ring out, but instead a new melody entirely redesigned with a conceptual tritone approach. Rather than being linear in terms of the intervals between notes, this tune creates intentional asymmetries and dissonances, generating energy and joy, in our pure Italian style.
It's a major innovation representing a break with two centuries of a single-tune tradition in the world of chiming watches – and one on which we were advised by our ambassador conductor Lorenzo Viotti. It involved two years of R&D and a complete movement redesign: it's one thing to have hammers that strike in a strictly regular way – and quite another to invent a mechanism in which they strike in an irregular yet logical way. Imagine having to design, assemble and then synchronize 900 components within a volume scarcely larger than that of a chronograph – which comprises a third of that number. The complexity and mastery involved are simply beyond comprehension.
Also in the world of music, our Aluminium collection has been enriched by a capsule in collaboration with Fender, designed to celebrate the 70th anniversary of the cult guitar and which is energizing this segment. Last but not least, in the realm of High Jewelry, we have developed our Serpenti collection with Pallini, whose technology makes bespoke jewelry more playful and accessible.
You launched Geneva Watch Days in 2020 with 14 brands. Do you still recognize them with 52?
Yes, insofar as none of the founding principles have changed: GWD remains decentralized and self-managed, with no fixed structure. The founding brands still work in collaboration with the city and the principle of openness to the public has been increasingly strengthened. What's more, we've added cultural events to the original concept that extend well beyond the scope of a simple watch show. Our concept keeps costs under control while supporting social equity, with five price categories. Rates start at CHF 10,000 for a young brand that benefits from all the services available to the major brands paying nine times more, while managing its showcase as it sees fit. We give even the most modestly sized watchmakers a real opportunity for visibility and expression, because we are not limited in terms of space. Thanks to decentralization, everyone can exhibit where, when and how they want – which is pretty hard to beat. By thus contributing to the growth of start-ups, we're doing watchmaking a favor, because in my opinion, the more brands and creativity there are, the more desire there is to create and appeal. It's like the GPHG: there's competition, but it's healthy.
What did the Zurich stage of the GWD contribute?
It was important because many people from Zurich came to Geneva this year, which wasn't the case before. We succeeded in making the German-speaking Swiss aware of a sector that doesn't necessarily interest them very much, despite representing a more affluent clientele than those in French-speaking Switzerland. As Switzerland remains a key market for watchmaking, involving the demographically and economically dominant part of the country is a great success. What's more, Zurich is an international hub – and we’ll be back there next year.
The simplicity of the concept makes it replicable, yet we need to take things gradually before exporting it. This year, we're also delighted to have welcomed a brand such as Breguet, a symbol of watchmaking history. It's crucial to cultivate this diversity in order create a palette of highly complementary exhibitors, representing centuries of watchmaking and not just the last 20 years. We sought this magical balance, with long-established, legendary brands, along with others regarded as ‘emerging’ to varying degrees in order to generate interest among the public and journalists alike.
Bulgari also won over the members of the GPHG Academy with three new models nominated: is this recognition still important?
Yes, you can't catch up in ten years with brands that have been established for over a century. Although Bulgari has been around for decades, its reputation as a watch brand is far more recent. This recognition began with the Finissimo collection a few years ago. While things are now going very well for us, let's not kid ourselves: we're still a long way from enjoying the same global legitimacy as Patek Philippe or Audemars Piguet. We must continue to innovate in a relevant way around our two icons, Serpenti and Finissimo, actively ploughing this furrow while integrating Octo Roma, which still has enormous potential.
Can you name Bulgari’s three greatest watchmaking strengths when faced with a more difficult economic climate?
First of all, Bulgari has managed to create some strong icons despite its young age. To create an icon so young is already a paradox, as it usually takes decades. We were able to create two in record time with the Finissimo and the Serpenti.
Firstly, these collections are recognizable and inspirational, even though relatively few people are wearing them, making this a first in the history of watchmaking history. This means there is enormous potential. Secondly, the strength of our capacity for innovation is not limited to men’s timepieces – as is often the case in watchmaking – it is also characterized by our genuine love for feminine pieces.
Our secret watch, the Serpenti Pallini, which was unveiled at the Geneva Watch Days, is a perfect illustration of this. A high-jewelry watch in this price segment must have a high-performance mechanical movement that is as reliable as it is easy to use. The Serpenti Pallini is powered by Bulgari’s Piccolissimo caliber, which is the perfect example of this. With nine new calibers in ten years, including two for women, Bulgari is one of the most innovative brands in terms of watch movements in the last decade.
Lastly, Bulgari is distinguished by a commercial approach that is very different from the rest of the traditional Swiss watchmaking industry, incorporating a great deal of Italian-style friendliness and empathy, which attracts clients. Our story is about the Dolce Vita, the celebration of life, which is combined with technical feats, like our grand sonnerie timepieces; this is why our customers love us.
