Interview with Alain Delamuraz

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Cover article GMT Jaquet Droz
“Jaquet Droz is an almost 300-year-young start-up!”

How is the Disruptive Legacy motto conveyed through artistic crafts?

I like to distinguish between form and substance. On the one hand, artistic crafts have been around for a very long time and can be interpreted in traditional ways such as through animal-themed, pastoral or romantic motifs, as was the case before the new strategy was implemented. On the other, they can be illustrated in a more disruptive way, with more modern, different colors and themes.

Everything that’s been accomplished so far has been very well done and we have great respect for those roots. I really like apparent contradictions and I note that since we’ve also started communicating on the “disruptive” aspect, it has increased the appeal of “legacy”. We’re opening up to new clients who don’t necessarily want daddy’s watch, yet who still admire traditional expertise and artistic crafts. 

In essence, we are thus seeking to reinforce the artistic crafts that we’ve mastered for so long within the Manufacture. In terms of form, we’re taking the liberty of challenging these skills and revitalizing them with shapes and materials that are new for Jaquet Droz, such as sapphire, ceramics and titanium. This is always done in conjunction with themes and colors that truly correspond to our customers and to no one else.

Tourbillon Skelet Sapphire Opal © Jaquet Droz
Transparency and iridescence are the keynotes of the Tourbillon Skelet Sapphire watch with its sapphire case framing an opal dial © Jaquet Droz

How does this approach reflect Pierre Jaquet-Droz’ legacy?

Precisely because Pierre Jaquet-Droz made bespoke pieces. Prior to 1800, he developed models exclusively to order. Whether for the kings of Spain, France, England or the Chinese emperor, it was essentially his customers’ DNA that was reflected in his watches. I think it’s really important to preserve and strengthen these roots, but also to energize them. 

I often say that respecting the master doesn’t mean copying him. Where would Arts such as architecture, painting or gastronomy be if students had always done and repeated what they had been taught? Excessive reproduction and copying of existing works stifles creativity, it’s like dying a slow death.

Jaquet Droz
Imperial Dragon Automaton - Cuprite © Jaquet Droz

How does this manifest itself at Jaquet Droz?

I often say that Jaquet Droz is an almost 300-year- young start-up. The stronger our roots, the more important it is to blaze new trails. To take the example of paillons (tiny gold or silver spangles), when I arrived at Jaquet Droz, this enameling technique was applied with total respect for tradition in terms of its colors and even its themes, such as the fleur de lys. 

Today, we can apply all kinds of enamel colors and offer pointillism skulls. It’s something unique and crazy. Our artists put forward suggestions, express themselves and have fun with traditional methods. As Victor Hugo said, “the future is a door, the past is the key”.

We’re opening up to new clients who don’t necessarily want daddys watch, yet who still admire traditional expertise and artistic crafts.

Jaquet Droz
Enamel © Jaquet Droz

Has everything already been invented in the field of artistic crafts?

Definitely not! In our small Manufacture that employs around 50 people, we master seven different crafts, some of which are very traditional, such as paillonné or plique-à-jour enameling. But we also have some unique techniques like quail eggshell mosaic, which exists in Vietnam on paintings and that we’ve miniaturized. Another technique we use that as far as we know has never been done elsewhere is that of enamel-coating sapphire – and I sincerely hope we’ll succeed in inventing even more new skills. 

The average age of our artisans is just 33 years old and it’s fantastic to think that all these young people are shaking up our heritage. Add to this the fact that Jaquet Droz regards customers as royalty and that we like to welcome them, to spend and even “waste” time with them, all with a single objective in view: to create the unique object of their dreams by mastering traditional skills, but above all by reinventing them.

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