The announcement of your return as CEO of Jaeger-LeCoultre last fall surprised everyone. How was the decision made?
It happened in the most natural way: I went to see the CEO and the chairman of Richemont to share my interest in the Maison – and my proposal was accepted. After seven years in corporate leadership at Richemont, I was starting to feel new aspirations. I missed the teams of a Maison like Jaeger-LeCoultre, as well as the creative content and emotion it generates.
What has primarily changed within the brand compared to the last time you were CEO in 2013?
I would highlight three key points: the Manufacture’s skills have become even more refined, with a stronger mastery of rare crafts which is great because it’s the foundation of the manufacture's concept. The culture of grand complications has also grown, driven by the spirit of the Hybris Mechanica. Finally, retail has entered a new dimension, with about 60 boutiques worldwide, enabling deeper relationships with our end customers.
And in watchmaking as a whole?
As CEO of Richemont, there was of course a good deal of interaction and follow-up with brands as well as their evolving relationship with people attracted to our sector due to the rise of social media, which has broadened the spectrum. Maisons are now addressing a larger audience and can work on the affinities they are able to offer, creating content and resonance around their values for watch-loving communities worldwide.
Is your network of boutiques going to evolve significantly?
Not in terms of numbers, but probably in terms of individual store size. This previously observed trend enables us to offer a better experience of the Maison with more content and experiences, such as the Ateliers d’Antoine, areas for welcoming visitors and highlighting accessories, as well as increasing exchanges with customers and their satisfaction.
What are your priorities for this year?
When I left Jaeger-LeCoultre in 2013, my love for the Maison was absolute, yet I didn’t know exactly why. After serving as CEO of other Maisons and analyzing other brands’ perspectives from a certain distance, I truly understood why. I am convinced by our strong differentiating factors that should be emphasized. We are fortunate to be experiencing a remarkable year with the Reverso, so the priority is to present its fundamentals.
Since we are addressing a wider audience than before, the approach may be less in-depth, but it is still the significant underlying points that need to be highlighted to showcase the inventiveness of our collections and promote our watchmaking culture. While social media draws attention to aesthetics, it is essential to explain the technical sophistication and craftsmanship required to achieve such results and performance within a case as small as that of the Reverso. Our signature elements embody watchmaking culture and we must take the time to share them, as they are hallmarks of our Manufacture. Which other Maison has developed 1,400 calibers in nearly two centuries and has 180 skills under one roof? This expertise is not available to everyone and it’s up to us to explain it.
Jaeger-LeCoultre is presenting around 20 new Reverso models at Watches and Wonders in all styles. What is the intention behind this impressive diversity?
The Reverso’s character is infinitely exceptional and reflects the diversity of our Maison. The collection is 94 years old and 50 movements have been designed for it – 14 of which equip current models. In reviewing its fundamental expressions since its origins, we realized how versatile it could be and how deeply entwined it is with the genius of the Manufacture. Very few watches have the ability to exist as a modern and functional model, a high watchmaking creation, as well as a style-oriented or jewelry timepiece. Among the small group of icons, very few can showcase complications and grand complications as effectively as the Reverso.
Take our new Minute Repeater: it is by observing the optimization of space and the distribution of components within its slender 12mm-thick case that observers can grasp our horological culture. Our watchmakers constantly set themselves new challenges and their quest for precision, along with their energy tinged with ‘reasonable irrationality’ push us to ever greater heights in terms of creativity and watchmaking inventiveness.
You are also introducing a Reverso "Or Déco"...
The thought process was stylistic, starting with a bracelet that needed to work well with the Reverso. The Milanese mesh bracelet features visual accuracy aligned with our watchmaking spirit. When integrating it with our 5N gold, we realized that the material was so strongly present that it must create a continuum between the bracelet, dial and case. We chose a deep finely grained effect, played with shiny indexes and added functionality with an adjustable system to fit all wrist sizes. This will enable a couple to share this stunningly attractive Reverso that is just 7.5mm thick and quickly earned the nickname "Or Déco."
What is the Manufacture’s main challenge?
The three key elements of the Manufacture are the eye, the hand and the heart. These apply to all our recruitments and represent the diversity of skills, how they evolve together and contribute to making the Manufacture what it is today. While our passion for watchmaking is contagious, watchmaking culture has somewhat diminished and we need to be adopt a more didactic approach to explaining our art. We are custodians of a heritage and our challenge is to transform this knowledge into emotion. The consistency in expressing our Maison and its expertise – and ultimately its ability to withstand the test of time – is also linked to the fact that our 180 skills are exercised under one roof. One skill nurtures another: the varied inspirations of the guillocheur, enameller, gemsetter, designer, watchmaker are catalyzed, ensuring more intense emotion and absolute character. Out of the 6,500 people working in watchmaking in the Vallée de Joux, 20 can create grand complications, while only three or four can make Grande Sonnerie watches – at a rate of just three or four per year. Our mission is to explain this exceptional craftsmanship, our watchmaking depth and our sense of pushing boundaries, all of which make the concept of Hybris intrinsically part of the spirit of Jaeger-LeCoultre.
