10 Mechanical Wonders

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GMT focus
7 minutes read
From Piaget’s Andy Warhol Clou de Paris to Patek Philippe’s Cubitus, we look at some of the top timepieces presented in GMT Magazine’s winter edition

Carpe Diem

Biel-based Perrelet has unleashed its creativity in an audacious skull watch. The ultra-contemporary new Turbine Skull subtly reveals a skull and crossbones housed on a guilloché subdial. Wrist movements set the turbine's 12 aluminum blades in motion, revealing the skull motif on the lower level of the timepiece. Available in two versions - steel with a blue flange or black PVD-coated steel - this Turbine Skull is adorned with baton-type hour-markers and Arabic numerals coated - as too are the hands - with luminescent material that makes the model even more fascinating in the dark. All the hallmarks of this iconic collection are present: a 44mm round case, a caseband adorned with wide grooves, an integrated crown and elongated lugs. This model beats to the rhythm of a self-winding Manufacture movement, of which the finishing can be admired through the sapphire crystal on the caseback.

Turbine SKULL © Perrelet
Turbine SKULL © Perrelet

Andy Warhol to the power of 10

More than half a century after its birth, the famous Black Tie is reborn as an Andy Warhol watch, honoring this artist, Piaget Society member and collector of the Maison's timepieces who inspired Yves Piaget. The friendship between the two men is now being celebrated through a partnership between the brand and the Andy Warhol Foundation for the Visual Arts, as well as a watch reflecting their creativity: the Andy Warhol Clou de Paris watch. This Haute Horlogerie hobnail pattern is extremely complex to apply to the curves of the cushion-shaped white gold case. The radiant blue meteorite dial accentuates the exclusive character, confirmed by the automatic Manufacture caliber beating inside. At the same time, collectors can choose to personalize their Andy Warhol model on the basis of nine other multi-colored ornamental stone dials, housed in a white or pink gold case. Retro has a great future ahead of it!

Andy Warhol Clou de Paris © Piaget
Andy Warhol Clou de Paris © Piaget

The archetypal RM

The new RM 17-02 tourbillon expresses all the aesthetic and technical power of Richard Mille, which has been revolutionizing contemporary Haute Horlogerie since the dawn of the third millennium. As uninhibited and uncompromising as ever, the brand is introducing a new and instantly recognizable creation that is true to its high standards as well as being packed with innovation and high-tech materials enhanced by extremely advanced finishing. The airy style of Richard Mille's dials and cases is immediately obvious, while a touch of warmth provides a welcome contrast: the coolness of the satin-brushed titanium case and sapphire dial is counterbalanced by the vibrant colors of the blue PVD and 5N gold-treated titanium bridges, gilded gears and laser-engraved yellow numerals. The ideal watch for channeling the RM vibe.

RM 17-02 Tourbillon © Richard Mille
RM 17-02 Tourbillon © Richard Mille

Carrera hits the track!

Last year, TAG Heuer celebrated the 60th anniversary of its iconic Carrera and paid tribute to its unfailing link with Porsche through several models. The story continues at the end of this year with a new creation: the Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon x Porsche Panamericana, unveiled during the 2024 edition of the legendary eponymous motor race in Mexico. This bold tourbillon chronograph illustrates the Porsche 550 Spyder's epic victories on this circuit during the 1950s. The design of this limited edition is directly inspired by the legendary race car with a grained-finish skeletonized dial evoking wheel rims, while the silvery, yellow and black tones echo the bodywork of the original speed machine. The seconds hand and lacquered yellow subdial hands endow the watch with an extra sporty touch.

Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon X Porsche Panamericana © TAG Heuer
Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon X Porsche Panamericana © TAG Heuer

Ode to purple

Cyrus Genève presents a new deep purple version of the Klepcys GMT Retrograde. The cushion-shaped titanium case features the model's typical three-dimensional openworked dial revealing the palm-shaped upper bridge of the caliber. Other signature characteristics include the two crowns at 3 and 9 o'clock engraved with the brand logo. This distinctive multi-layered dial along with the particularly vivid hue endow this new model with its unique character. A sapphire disk with Arabic numerals indicating the main time offers an unobstructed view of the movement components, the caliber's famous palm-tree bridge and the gilded gearwheels. The dual time-zone complication is displayed in the center on an opaline gray arc, with a retrograde hand to indicate home time. At 6 o'clock, the light-gray small seconds counter is adorned with a singular helix-shaped hand echoing the brand's logo. This Klepcys is powered by a self-winding Manufacture caliber whose components can be admired through the sapphire crystal caseback.

Montre Klepcys GMT Royal Purple © Cyrus
Klepcys GMT Royal Purple © Cyrus

Sporty-chic. Squared.

Patek Philippe hadn't launched a new collection for a quarter of a century, so it was only natural that the Cubitus debut should be accompanied by a powerful media outpouring. Whether praised or criticized, the Cubitus is a watch that absolutely must be seen, tried on and handled to appreciate its spot-on style and the technical feat it represents. Its case is square with rounded corners, flanked by lateral lugs reminiscent of the Nautilus silhouette. Its imposing size is counterbalanced by an ultra-thin profile and a super-comfortable strap. The sunburst, horizontally embossed dial also evokes Patek Philippe's sporty-chic icon and represents a signature feature of this new collection launched as three models: two self-winding three-hand plus date versions in steel or steel and gold, along with an interpretation showcasing a brand-new complication providing instantaneous jumping indications of the grand date, day and moon phases. Comprising 353 components, including 104 for the grand date alone, this new caliber represents a veritable technical challenge. It required a metal as noble as its pedigree: platinum, of course, discreetly set with a baguette-cut diamond much appreciated by insiders.

Cubitus Réf. 5822P-001 © Patek Philippe
Cubitus Ref. 5822P-001 © Patek Philippe

Snake hour

Twelve years: that's how long it's been since Jaquet Droz created a watch inspired by a snake. The Chinese New Year represented the perfect occasion to do so. The atelier has created two one-of-a-kind, high-flying timepieces. They share a 41mm red gold case and a naturalist ambiance evoking the animal's natural habitat. The first features a hand-chased mother-of-pearl bamboo backdrop filled with a micro-painted green gradient. Nestling amidst this setting, the reptile is depicted in a soft, harmonious form. The white gold body is composed of five hand-assembled segments. At its highest point, it measures 4mm, almost touching the sapphire crystal. It is enameled in shades of blue and green—quite a feat when considering the difficulty of getting the original enamel powder to adhere to a circular shape prior to firing. This creation showcases a motif designed by John Howe, friend of Jaquet Droz and Artistic Director of the Lord of the Rings trilogy. It's also the first timepiece of its kind to dispense with hands: the hours are indicated by the snake's head and the minutes by the tip of its tail.

Heure Ophidienne © Jaquet Droz
Orphidian Hour © Jaquet Droz

Horology. Aced.

What else could be brought to the art of skeleton-working, which consists of hollowing out each component to the limits of its strength? While this technique has been practiced since the 16th century, Bovet has added a number of features to bring a fresh touch. With the Aperto 1, the Manufacture has created a highly contemporary skeletonized movement. It's a far cry from the classic horological traditions that the Manufacture otherwise reveres. As well as featuring a unisex 42mm size, this is a versatile timepiece. Firstly, because its titanium case protects it from uses that one might call "unconventional" for a timepiece of this level; secondly, because it features a new strap-change system enabling it to adapt smoothly to varied social obligations. Formal wear is not, however, the only vocation of this open-hearted model, as Bovet has endowed it with a 100% in-house caliber designed right from the start for skeletonization. This futuristic, quintessential caliber with its seven-day power reserve has been co-designed by Pininfarina. Bridges and plates converge towards the center, and it is attired in anthracite grey, blue or tennis yellow—a color that naturally impressed Daniil Medvedev.

Aperto 1 © Bovet
Aperto 1 © Bovet

Braving the trials of time

Platinum and black Grand Feu enamel ensure enduring elegance: Breguet's Classique appears attired in an unprecedented combination of these two noble materials, symbols of excellence and timelessness. Nicknamed "the metal of kings," platinum crowns the 38mm case of the Classique 5177 (hours, minutes and seconds) and the 39mm case middle of the Classique 7787 (with moon phases and power-reserve indicator). This regal material notably stands out for its weight and resistance to both magnetism and corrosion. The Grand Feu enamel on the dials of both models shines with timeless brilliance. Black enamel is reputed to be the most difficult to achieve, with the slightest imperfection visible to the naked eye. For these two models powered by Manufacture Breguet Calibers 777 and 591 DRL, the result is breathtakingly beautiful.

Classique 7787 © Breguet
Classique 7787 © Breguet

The ultimate wrist companion

Sometimes, pushing the envelope in creative pursuits is best achieved through collaboration. Witness Audemars Piguet's 43mm Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon "Companion," born of an inspired creative dialog with KAWS. This 250-piece titanium limited edition brings the influential artist's "Companion" to life as a 3D figure pressing against the sapphire crystal, adding a touch of playfulness to Haute Horlogerie. Crafted from titanium, this miniature being captures every detail, from its skull-shaped head and X-shaped eyes to its gloved hands. Inside, the new Caliber 2979 drives peripheral hour and minute hands, keeping the focus on "Companion" and the tourbillon nestled in its open chest. Secured with screws bearing KAWS' distinctive X motif, this 43mm co-creation forms a natural bridge between the Le Brassus watchmaker, the contemporary artist and their passionate audiences.

Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon « Companion » 43 mm © Audemars Piguet
Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon « Companion » 43 mm © Audemars Piguet

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"GMT 90" © GMT Magazine
GMT 90 © GMT Magazine