Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud is a prime example. Founded nearly ten years ago, it rapidly offered collectors the possibility of personalizing their timepieces. Each chronometer is hand-assembled by a single watchmaker who can – subject to the usual technical reservations – have a barrel cover engraved, work on an inner bezel ring color or vary a finish. However, the workshop’s recent announcement goes far beyond that.
The new Chronomètre FB RES is literally designed for a bespoke approach. To mark the occasion, an online configurator has been created. It is exclusively dedicated to this model that remains the only one to benefit from this new program. The latter will nevertheless be very limited, as only 38 calibers have been reserved for this purpose. That is a small number in view of the growing demand for the Maison, but significant for a workshop whose annual production is expected to be around 50 units.
Ferdinand Berthoud has pushed customization possibilities to the limit for this new exercise. We’re no longer talking about simple color variations. First, collectors can opt for a case format that is either round or octagonal. Then they can decide on the material: steel, white, yellow or rose gold, platinum, titanium or ceramized titanium. These two options alone take Ferdinand Berthoud’s initiative far beyond the usual personalization programs. It is in fact only at this stage that the choice of colors can be made, notably for the inner bezel ring, before certain components can be given their own finish.
RESPECTING A PROUD HERITAGE
While this resolutely cross-disciplinary approach could theoretically have opened the door to thousands of combinations, that was not the option taken. To ensure the workshop’s consistency and aesthetic continuity, Ferdinand Berthoud deliberately limited the number of variations to around 200. All others were individually examined and then discarded as too far removed from the Maison’s traditional principles – and hence from those of its eponymous founder, Ferdinand Berthoud (1727 - 1807), whose watchmaking legacy it perpetuates.
This heritage remains at the heart of each FB-RES, where the FB-RES.FC caliber beats. The acronym reflects its construction: Remontoir d’Égalité, natural deadbeat seconds, Skeleton dial, Fusee-and-Chain escapement. Previously in domed Grand Feu enamel, the dial gives way on this occasion to a combination of bridges and main- plate, with a wide 3 to 6 o’clock opening revealing three bridges converging towards the dial center.
This geometry is inspired by a skeleton table clock made by Ferdinand Berthoud around 1775. Both the assembly and finishing (two linear meters of hand-chamfering!) are entirely hand-crafted. A technical requirement coupled with a concern for perfect rating, as each FB RES is chronometer-certified by the COSC.
This article is an excerpt from the upcoming GMT XXL World Magazine, debuting at Geneva Watch Days August 29th. Pre-order your copy here.
