The saying goes that Japanese haute horology is Switzerland's best-kept secret. Indeed, several Japanese brands are making their mark in the watchmaking world, particularly among enthusiasts who venture off the beaten path. The latest one is Minase (pronounced “Minazé”).
Collectors who fall in love with it are drawn for the same reasons that guide most of their purchases: a confidential brand, limited production, authenticity, and a high degree of quality. Four characteristics that also define Minase. Originally from Japan, the brand now generates nearly 50% of its sales internationally—with the proportions of a brand that produces no more than 500 watches per year.
Spin-off of a renowned group
Understanding Minase starts with understanding its origin. It all began with Kyowa, a Japanese company established in 1963, specializing in watchmaking tools, known for its expertise in machining complex shapes and their finishing. So much so that in 2005, the parent company decided to create a subsidiary that would apply these skills under its own name. Thus, Minase was born, named after a local village near the parent company's base in the Akita Prefecture.
Keen observers will draw parallels between the art of polishing and "another great Japanese watchmaking house," Grand Seiko. The latter highlights its "Zaratsu" polishing. At Minase, it is a "Sallaz" polishing, named after the two brothers who invented this mirror-polishing method for flat surfaces. Technically, "Zaratsu" and "Sallaz" are identical. However, the legend suggests that the first was actually a phonetic distortion of the very Swiss name "Sallaz" by Japanese artisans who pronounced it... "Zaratsu." Two names, one technique.
Sandwich cases
Beyond finishing, Minase stands out with its case construction. Because in reality, there are almost two cases: the first, conventional and external, and a second, placed within the first, with the dial representing the upper surface. A "case-in-case" design, in a way. This is why most Minase collections feature dials that seem to float in mid-air. It is also through this perforated circumference that light enters the heart of the watch—a chiaroscuro effect that Japanese aesthetics have historically appreciated.
Lifetime repairability
The third and final feature of Minase is its MORE approach, which stands for Minase Original Rebuild Equation. The idea behind this modular "case-in-case" construction is to offer permanent reparability. Each component can be easily accessed and replaced, reliably and quickly, and at a lower cost. This argument is crucial for a brand that aims to be affordable, with an average price range between CHF 4,000 and 5,000, and most parts sold online.
Minase will be exhibiting close to Palexpo during Watches and Wonders Geneva, from March 31 to April 3, by appointment only via this email address.
