In the world of complicated watchmaking, few movements have earned the kind of reverence that the Valjoux 88 commands. This iconic calibre, first introduced in the late 1940s, powered some of the most prestigious chronographs of its time. Now, as part of its 20th anniversary celebrations, Les Ateliers Louis Moinet has rekindled this classic movement in its latest creation, the Speed of Sound.
Limited to just 20 pieces, this new release not only upholds the Louis Moinet legacy of chronograph excellence, but also incorporates the brand’s recurring celestial elements in the form of rare meteorite fragments. Its rarely seen telemeter scale, designed to measure the speed of sound, lends the watch its dramatic name.
A Legacy of Chronographs
For watch enthusiasts, the name Louis Moinet is synonymous with the chronograph. The pioneering watchmaker is widely credited with inventing the world’s first chronograph, the Compteur de Tierces, completed in 1816. This high-frequency monopusher was a marvel of its time, capable of measuring intervals down to 1/60th of a second.
Under the leadership of Jean-Marie Schaller, the modern-day Louis Moinet brand continues to honour this legacy, consistently producing chronographs that are as technically impressive as they are visually striking.
Until now, the brand has primarily used proprietary movements developed in collaboration with Concepto or relied on the Valjoux 7750 and its derivatives. But with Speed of Sound, the Saint-Blaise watchmaker has resurrected one of the most celebrated chronograph calibres of the mid-20th century: the Valjoux 88.
Valjoux 88: A Revered Calibre
Developed in the 1940s as an evolution of the Valjoux 72, the Valjoux 88 introduced a triple calendar and moonphase complication to an already impressive manual-winding, column-wheel chronograph. During its heyday, the Valjoux 88 was the preferred movement for brands like Rolex, Breitling and Universal Genève, powering some of their most iconic timepieces.
Now, Les Ateliers Louis Moinet has breathed new life into this iconic movement, showcasing it in Speed of Sound and giving it modern upgrades that preserve its timeless appeal while infusing it with a contemporary twist.
Moonphase Modernisation
At the heart of Speed of Sound’s reinterpretation of the Valjoux 88 is its moonphase display, a feature completely redesigned by the Louis Moinet team. The moonphase now appears on a large, slightly domed disc adorned with a hand-drawn lunar motif, enhanced with luminescent paint that brings the moon to life, glowing softly in the dark with an ethereal light.
What sets this moonphase apart is the inclusion of a fragment of the lunar meteorite Dhofar 457, sourced from Oman. This rare piece of lunar history is embedded in the disc and a full moon is indicated when the meteorite fragment aligns with the markers at 3 and 9 o’clock.
The LM team also chose to streamline the dial by removing the traditional calendar display and 12-hour chronograph counter. This refinement gives the watch a more modern aesthetic while preserving the movement’s historic integrity.
Sight and Sound
It is not just the reimagined moonphase that makes this chronograph stand out: It also features a telemeter scale around its dial periphery, a graduation rarely seen on modern watches.
Historically used in military timepieces, the telemeter allows the wearer to measure the distance between an event seen and heard, such as a lightning bolt followed by thunder, or the flash of gunfire followed by artillery. Using the known speed of sound – 343 meters per second (1,235 kilometres per hour)—the telemeter scale converts the time between visual and auditory cues into a precise distance.
Rich in Detail
Just inside the telemeter, a circular-finished, red gold-treated chronograph seconds scale elegantly encircles the dial, its warm copper tones harmonising with the gilded borders that outline the small seconds, chronograph minutes and moonphase indications.
Adding another celestial touch, Aletai meteorite is used to craft the dials of the small seconds and the 30-minute chronograph counter. This meteorite, which began as a massive object that broke apart upon entering Earth’s atmosphere, was first discovered in China in 1898.
Serving as a velvety backdrop to this ensemble is the deep black dial, featuring a swirling guilloche motif meticulously engine-turned by artisan Yann von Kaenel on a traditional rose engine. The intricate pattern interacts with light, flashing brightly at times and retreating into subtle shadows, giving the dial a dynamic, almost mystical quality.
Completing the dial are lume-filled, faceted and skeletonised hour and minute hands, while the rhodium-treated applied numerals in a modern typeface stand out in relief, offering a sharp contrast against the textured background.
Case and Craftsmanship
The Grade 5 titanium case, featuring a smart combination of brushed and polished finishes, houses the movement and dial. At 40.7mm, its compact size and lightweight construction ensure a comfortable fit on the wrist. The mushroom pushers add a vintage touch, while the broad, hollowed lugs lend a more contemporary feel. The case is paired with a black alligator leather strap that is a neat match for the dial.
Turning the watch over, the transparent display back reveals the Valjoux 88 in all its glory. The gilded bridges, adorned with delicate floral scroll motifs, are enhanced by expert finishing techniques such as straight-graining, circular graining, polished screws and polished bevels. Crowning this impressive view is the large, slow-beating 2.5 Hz balance wheel. A single mainspring powers the movement, providing a 40-hour power reserve.
Cosmic Pearl
In describing the vision behind Speed of Sound, Louis Moinet owner and creative director Jean-Marie Schaller has highlighted the ambitious goal of reviving the iconic Valjoux 88 calibre and transforming it into a modern masterpiece, enhanced by the celestial touch of meteorite fragments.
"The Speed of Sound was a bold challenge that involved bringing the legendary Valjoux 88 calibre back to life and turning it into a contemporary masterpiece," says Schaller. "The result is a full-fledged work of horological art, combining tried-and-true mechanics with modern technology and avant-garde design.
“This timepiece takes us all the way from our home in Saint-Blaise to the infinite expanses of the cosmos. It thereby transcends the boundaries of time and space.”
Limited to just 20 pieces and part of the brand’s Cosmic Art collection, the Speed of Sound is priced at CHF 50,000. For more details, please visit the Louis Moinet website.
