Built to specifications drawn up in the mid-1950s by the French Ministry of Defence, the Type XX wrist chronograph is best exemplified by the Breguet version. Originally a tool watch issued to military pilots and now beloved of civilians, today’s Type XX has lost none of its aura and retains its vintage appeal — which is probably why it continues to inspire so many brands.
CHF 1’995, Hamilton
Sporting a vintage aesthetic, the Khaki Pilot Pioneer revives the form and function of chronographs that were issued to the British Royal Air Force in the 1970s, a mere twenty years after the Type XX was introduced. This reliable and robust model is driven by an exclusive manual-winding movement.
CHF 5’800, Longines
A chrono worthy of the original Type XX, with a flyback function that enables the user to instantaneously stop and restart the chronograph with a single press of the pusher at 4 o’clock. The shaded matte green dial combines with a ceramic bidirectional rotating bezel, topped with a yellow gold cap.
CHF 5'850, Breitling
This chronograph is a wonderfully executed reissue of the Ref. 765 AVI Co-Pilot from 1953. Designed for pilots, its rotating 12-hour bezel provided a legible and easy-to-operate means of recording flight times and soon proved indispensable. This new interpretation combines robustness with wearability.
CHF 6'400, Bell and Ross
In this loose interpretation of the Type XX chronograph, the characteristic round case gives way to a fairly large square shape, still very much inspired by military cockpit instruments. Highly legible, completely reliable and enhanced operability, including in mid-flight, it ticks all the boxes.
CHF 8'100, IWC
This fresh addition to IWC’s lineup of pilot’s watches hides its mechanical pedigree beneath a sophisticated steel livery and a deep blue dial. Joining the chronograph function is a complication that will prove useful on a daily basis, namely the day of the week and the date, clearly displayed in twin apertures. All courtesy of the IWC-manufactured 69385 movement.
CHF 8'690, Chopard
Inspired by car racing, a theme that extends to the tyre-tread pattern on the rubber strap, this Mille Miglia is cased in Lucent Steel™, a proprietary alloy that was four years in development. Brighter than conventional steel, it is also 50% harder, contains at least 80% recycled metal and is naturally hypoallergenic.
CHF 17'100, Blancpain
New-gen materials, sophisticated mechanisms and design mesh in this sport-chic chronograph. Titanium for the case combines with ceramic for the bidirectional rotating bezel. An in-house movement drives the flyback chronograph function while the rich blue of the sunray dial coordinates beautifully with the ceramic bezel insert and the leather strap.
CHF 35'000, Breguet
The ultimate chronograph by who else but Breguet, inventor of the Type XX. The Manufacture’s expertise as a maker of aviation watches has been acknowledged since the 1950s by the air forces that have issued them to their pilots. This civilian version in gold features a ceramic bezel and, naturally, a flyback function for the chrono.
