Currently unavailable. These past six months, watch enthusiasts have been chasing after the Ralph Lauren Polo Vintage 67, mostly unsuccessfully. Why this sudden popularity, nobody knows. Collecting is an often unfathomable pursuit, particularly as collectors haven’t always held Ralph Lauren this close to their heart.
On the wrong foot
The brand’s horological debut, almost fifteen years ago, was hardly ingrained with humility. “Our watches are positioned at the highest level, in gold or platinum only. They encapsulate the very best there is,” proclaimed the then CEO. For its first SIHH, the reception was frosty to say the least. When it came to watchmaking, Ralph Lauren was a giant with feet of clay and everything to prove – something certain neighbours at Palexpo wouldn’t let it forget. Such an arrogant posture did the brand a disservice. Not only were its watches well-executed, they were perfectly aligned with the Ralph Lauren universe. More than ten years later, tracking down a pre-owned Ralph Lauren tourbillon is an almost impossible task.
Ralph Lauren quit SIHH to focus on its more attainable iconic models, the Polo Bear and the Stirrup, with the emphasis on design over mechanisms. Until now.
Return to favour
A lesson had been learned. In 2022 Guillaume Têtu quietly introduced a model that offers significant added value at an affordable price, is instilled with the brand’s signature cowboy spirit and powered by a movement collectors know and appreciate. That model is the Polo Vintage 67. All Ralph Lauren packed into a 40mm diameter and a slimline 9mm height.
The well-proportioned case suits all genders, with the option of a brown leather bund strap for more overtly masculine appeal. Finishing is exemplary, from the polished gunmetal case to the slightly three-dimensional lacquered Arabic numerals and hands. Minutes on a railroad-style track are paired with guillochéd subsidiary seconds.
Fine mechanics
A large part of the attraction is on the inside. Turning the watch over, collectors will recognise the work of La Joux-Perret. A wise choice. Enthusiasts are typically drawn to a higher-grade movement such as this LJP7380 over the more ubiquitous ETA or Sellita (among others). Côtes de Genève striping and chamfered bridges elevate the finish without going overboard. Power reserve runs to a substantial 90 hours and manual-winding means no rotor, hence an unobstructed view of the movement. This choice of hand-winding rather than automatic is also in keeping with the Polo Vintage’s 1920s and 1930s inspiration.
The Polo Vintage 67 nicely fills the gap between the smaller, crowd-pleasing Polo Bear line and the brand’s equestrian-themed styles. Price-wise it comes in well below the hand-engraved Western collection, which sells for ten times more.
The initial salvo of a few hundred pieces, only from Ralph Lauren stores, sold out within weeks. A second drop is planned, as soon as La Joux-Perret is able to supply the movements. At less than €2,500 the hard part will be finding one.
