When Leica first introduced the ZM 1 and ZM 2 two years ago, it marked a bold step into the world of luxury watchmaking for the Wetzlar brand. These early models were celebrated for their strong connection to Leica’s legendary cameras, blending functional innovation with the aesthetic spirit of high-end photography gear.
But a year later, the ZM 11 took this journey further, embodying a new approach to design. No longer tied as closely to camera design, the ZM 11 draws on photography itself as inspiration – with a focus on light, shadow and depth.
According to Henrik Ekdahl, Managing Director of Ernst Leitz Werkstätten, Leica’s division for fine craftsmanship, the ZM 11’s departure from its predecessors in both design and concept was deliberate.
“With the Leica ZM 1 and ZM 2, we managed to bring many of the characteristics from the cameras and a lot of Leica DNA to the watches,” explains Ekdahl. “On the ZM 11, we have a fascinating gradient effect on the dial. We wanted to focus even more on these characteristics and bring even more of the Leica DNA to the wrist.”
Inspired by Photographic Language
As such, Leica’s team embraced a design language inspired not by the physical components of a camera, but by the core elements of photography.
Marcus Eilinger, Creative Director at Ernst Leitz Werkstätten, describes the approach: “At Leica, I quickly realised that photography is their actual language, with its basic elements of light and shadow. Light and shadows provide various depths to and perspectives on an object, so it can be seen differently. We wanted to integrate this into the product and tried to make these elements come alive.”
This philosophy is reflected in the design of the ZM 11’s dial, which plays with light to create a sense of depth and dimension. Eilinger and his team experimented with outside-the-box techniques to achieve a layered construction that gives the dial its organic gradient effect.
He says: “We designed the dials and hands of the watch in three dimensions whenever possible and structured them with various surface finishes. We built two different layers on top of each other with a thickness of 0.4 mm. We tried different production processes and found a solution in an etching technology, unconventional in the industry. It made this unique dial possible.”
Offered in Midnight Blue, Coffee Black and a Launch Edition in black with red accents, each dial plays with light subtly, while the diamond-cut, lume-filled hands and indices, with their brushed and sandblasted finishes, enhance its eye-catching nature.
A Modern, Sporty Aesthetic
The design of the ZM 11 also signalled a shift from the traditional styling of the ZM 1 and ZM 2 towards a more modern and sporty aesthetic. Its 41mm case is sleek, featuring integrated lugs and a double-domed sapphire crystal that contributes to a streamlined profile.
The ZM 11 is also equipped with a screw-in crown and offers water resistance of up to 100 metres, making it suitable for both everyday wear and more active pursuits.
The case materials vary between editions, with 316L stainless steel for the Midnight Blue model and Grade 5 titanium for the Coffee Black and Launch Edition.
Eilinger highlights the thoughtful design choices: “[The case] has a very modern silhouette with its integrated lugs. The polished, satinised and brushed surfaces are combined with one another in a variety of ways, so the ensemble creates a harmonic, beautiful object.”
Additionally, Leica incorporated an Easy-Change system into the ZM 11, allowing wearers to switch effortlessly between different strap options – vulcanised rubber, Cordura fabric or an integrated stainless steel or titanium bracelet. A signature red button on the back of the lugs operates this feature, providing a functional reference to Leica’s iconic red dot.
“I endeavoured to include iconic elements into the design and to make them functional. For example, the red dot was designed so the strap can be changed without a tool,” Eilinger adds.
A Movement for a Broader Audience
A key difference between the ZM 11 and its predecessors lies in the movement. The ZM 1 and ZM 2 were equipped with proprietary movements developed in collaboration with Lehmann Präzision in Germany. But the ZM 11, designed for wider distribution at a lower price point, required a movement that could be produced at a larger scale while still delivering the aesthetic and functional quality we expect to see from Leica.
To achieve this, Leica partnered with Swiss firm Chronode to develop the LA-3001 automatic movement, regulated to keep time within -4 to +6 seconds per day and offering a 60-hour power reserve. A quick-correction system integrated into the crown allows for easy adjustment of the date.
Visible through the sapphire caseback, the movement is finished with a blend of brushed and blasted surfaces, lending it an industrial aesthetic that complements the ZM 11’s modern design.
Jean-François Mojon, Managing Director of Chronode, shares: “[The movement] base is a Chronode construction that has been adapted to the needs of Leica. For example, the bridge geometry has been fully revised. The finishes have also been customised. It has laser structuring and a NAC colour, a particular tone that further distinguishes the Leica ZM 11.”
Mojon also highlights the attention to detail in the movement’s components: “We have our own screws and our own pins. The jewel bearings are also specific to our projects. This is so we have control over their dimensions and characteristics. It’s really about choosing the best components and best materials to obtain a successful product.”
Leica’s Watchmaking Journey
A year after its launch, the Leica ZM 11 continues to demonstrate the brand’s dedication to innovative design, precision engineering and the artistic heritage of photography. With a more accessible price tag and a modern, sporty aesthetic, the ZM 11 has expanded Leica’s reach in the world of horology.
Through thoughtful collaboration and a focus on light and shadow, the ZM 11 has represented an exciting step in Leica’s ongoing watchmaking journey – where time is not only measured, but experienced. And with Leica’s global retail network, the opportunity to experience the ZM 11 in the metal is just a visit away.
As Henrik Ekdahl puts it: “A big advantage of being part of Leica Camera AG is that we can rely on Leica’s distribution. We can already be found in Leica stores from Los Angeles to Tokyo. Besides cameras, long-range optics and other Leica products, you can get to know our watches there. Slip one on your wrist and you will see what masterpieces they are!”
For further details, visit the Leica website or one of its stores worldwide.
