Original Displays

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Cover multi Hervé 16.05.24
3 minutes read
Hours and minutes are not always shown on two hands mounted in the centre of the dial. Designers like to explore new possibilities and push boundaries. Here are eight examples

Fluidic

This is not just a fluidic display – it’s a genuine fluid-based technology, inspired by the water clocks of the pharaohs. Two reservoirs located at 6 o’clock each contain a different fluid: the first is coloured, the second is colourless. Most importantly, they are immiscible. Each reservoir compresses or expands to release or absorb its fluid inside a glass capillary that runs around the outside of the dial, with a 0 to 12 scale for the hours. The minutes are displayed centrally.

T1 en or rouge et titane, 45, 3 x 46, 3 mm, mouvement à remontage manuel avec heures fluidiques et indicateur de réserve de marche, bracelet en caoutchouc. HYT. CHF 64'000. © HYT
T1 in red gold and titanium, 45.3 x 46.3 mm, manual-winding movement with fluidic hours and power reserve indicator, rubber strap. HYT. CHF 64,000 © HYT

Satellite

Like all Urwerk watches, this innovative timepiece has a strong identity. It displays hours and minutes without the use of hands – instead, satellites move along a graduated arc. The first carries the hours, seconds and minutes. When an hour satellite has completed its 60 minutes, the next one, carrying the subsequent hour, appears in front of the 0 minute index. It’s a futuristic take on a concept borrowed from a 17th-century clock. 

UR-100V LightSpeed en carbone, 43 x 51, 7 mm, mouvement automatique avec heures satellites et durée d’un rayon solaire pour atteindre 8 des planètes du système solaire, bracelet en caoutchouc. Urwerk. CHF 65´000. © Urwerk
UR-100V LightSpeed in carbon, 43 x 51.7 mm, automatic movement with satellite hours and the time taken by a ray of light to reach 8 of the planets in the solar system, rubber strap. Urwerk. CHF 65,000 © Urwerk

Central

The most conventional way to display time on a watch dial is with hour and minute hands mounted on a central axis. This simple architecture can be enhanced with a running second hand, or sometimes a complication, as is the case here with the addition of a chronograph function with central chronograph hand. This shouldn’t be confused with a central seconds hand – on a chronograph, the seconds are displayed on subdial, generally located at six o’clock.

Code 11.59 en céramique et or rose, 41 mm de diamètre, mouvement chronographe automatique avec date par guichet, bracelet en caoutchouc. Audemars Piguet. CHF 43’300. © Audemars Piguet
Code 11.59 in ceramic and rose gold, 41 mm diameter, automatic chronograph movement with window date, rubber strap. Audemars Piguet. CHF 43,300 © Audemars Piguet

Retrograde

Against a white gold dial, hand-engraved with a map inspired by the work of geographer Gerhard Mercator, the hours and minutes are indicated by two special retrograde hands that move along an axis at 12 o’clock. They travel over two scales – from 0 to 12 for the hours and 0 to 60 for the minutes. Once they reach the end of their journey (12 for the hours and 60 for the minutes) they instantly return to their starting point, i.e. zero.

Mercator en platine, 36 mm de diamètre, mouvement automatique avec heures et minutes rétrogrades, bracelet en alligator. Vacheron Constantin. Prix sur demande. © Vacheron Constantin
Mercator in platinum, 36 mm diameter, automatic movement with retrograde hours and minutes, alligator strap. Vacheron Constantin. Price on request © Vacheron Constantin

Jumping

This full black version of the Monsieur watch, with its black Clous de Paris dial, completely blurs the lines in terms of displaying the passage of time. The hours are read from an Arabic numeral housed in a window at 6 o’clock, which jumps instantaneously every 60 minutes – hence, “jumping” hours. The minutes are read via a retrograde hand, and the seconds via a miniature counter located in the centre of the dial.

Monsieur Edition Superleggera en céramique, 42 mm de diamètre, mouvement à remontage manuel avec heures sautantes, minutes rétrogrades et petite seconde, bracelet en nylon. Chanel Horlogerie. CHF 44'650. © Chanel
Monsieur Edition Superleggera in ceramic, 42 mm diameter, manual-winding movement with jumping hours, retrograde minutes and small seconds, nylon strap. Chanel Horlogerie. CHF 44,650 © Chanel

Lateral

This original watch is reminiscent of a 1970s car radiator grille whose bonnet, made from sapphire crystal, reveals the movement on the top of the case rather than the back. The hours and minutes are moved to the side of the case, hence the term “lateral display”. Due to the obvious space constraints, the time is displayed not on traditional hands but by Arabic numerals, with hours and minutes in two separate windows. The hours, on the left, jump every 60 minutes while the minutes, on the right, trail.

HM8 Mark 2 en titane et carbone, 47 x 41, 5 mm, mouvement automatique avec heures et minutes latérales, bracelet en cuir. Série limitée à 33 exemplaires. MB&F. CHF 68'000. © MB&F
HM8 Mark 2 in titanium and carbon, 47 x 41.5 mm, automatic movement with lateral hours and minutes, leather strap. Limited edition of 33 pieces. MB&F. CHF 68,000 © MB&F

Separate

In the past, regulators were reference clocks renowned for their extreme precision and readability. The hour, minute and second hands are thus separated, rotating on different axes to avoid touching each other and eliminate the risk of friction. Because they do not overlap, they offer better readability. Today’s regulators, inspired by these technical instruments, generally feature off-centre hours, central minutes and seconds at 6 o’clock.

Alpiner Extrême en acier, 41 x 42, 5 mm, mouvement automatique avec heures décentrées, minutes centrales et petite seconde, bracelet en acier. Série imitée à 888 exemplaires. Alpina. CHF 2'495. © Alpina
Alpiner Extrême in steel, 41 x 42.5 mm, automatic movement with off-centre hours, central minutes and small seconds, steel bracelet. Limited series of 888 pieces. Alpina. CHF 2,495 © Alpina

Off-centre

At A. Lange & Söhne, in the interests of readability and rigour, no display is ever superimposed on another, even in the case of a grand complication. In order to comply with this house rule, the hour and minute display on this Perpetual Calendar is shifted to the right, in a position referred to as “off-centre”. This stylistic effect increases the space available for the other indications: days, months, date, seconds and moon phases.

Lange 1 Quantième Perpétuel en platine, 42 mm de diamètre, mouvement  automatique avec heures et minutes décentrées, jours et mois par aiguilles, grande date, petite seconde et indicateur des phases de Lune. A Lange & Söhne. Prix sur demande. © A Lange & Söhne
Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar in platinum, 42 mm diameter, automatic movement with off-centre hours and minutes, day and month by hands, large date, small seconds and moon phase indicator. A Lange & Söhne. Price on request © A. Lange & Söhne
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