The idea of “Das Wesentliche” or “the essential” has been a constant at the heart of Leica’s design philosophy since it was founded in 1869. This pared-down principle is still evident today in the likes of the brand’s M11 Monochrom camera, which takes pictures in black and white only.
Impressively, Leica has now transposed this minimalist design ethos to its ZM 1 Monochrom and ZM 2 Monochrom watches. Drawing from the fundamentals of black-and-white photography – contrast and light – these timepieces manage to embody the Wetzlar-based brand’s distinct design language while offering innovative interpretations of classic watch complications.
Time Measuring and More
“ZM” stands for “Zeitmesser,” a German term for a time measuring instrument. The ZM 1 and ZM 2 dials are milled from high-strength aluminium and matte-finished in black to provide a stark backdrop to a number of indications and functions that stretch beyond just telling the time.
Yes, there are central hours and minutes, showcased via black rhodium-plated and diamond-polished baton hands and indices bearing anthracite edges. And yes, at 6 o’clock, there is a black lacquered hand to mark the small seconds. But there’s a lot more going on than that, though thanks to the pure, uncluttered layout, you wouldn’t necessarily realise it at first glance.
For a start, between 8 and 9 o’clock, we find a power reserve indicator, the design of which is inspired by the Leica M’s shutter curtain, with two synchronized blades slowly converging to show the remaining level of energy. Then, there is a quick-set date window at 3 o’clock, operated by a pusher at 1 o’clock on the caseband.
As for the ZM 2 Monochrom, this has the added dimension of a 12-hour internal bezel for tracking a second time zone, set using the GMT crown at 4 o’clock. And to provide clarity for globetrotters, that GMT crown is synchronized with a day and night display that sits next to the mode indicator.
Mode Indicator & Innovative Push-Crown
The mode indicator?! Indeed, part of this watch’s appeal for those who are into all things Leica, or even know a just little a bit about the company, is the patented push-crown, that takes its cues from the shutter release button of Leica cameras. Unlike a traditional crown that pulls out, it resets the small seconds hand to zero with a simple press, activating a red dot on the circular mode indicator on the dial. This ingenious mechanism offers a precise method for setting the correct time, akin to capturing a moment – much like pressing the shutter button on a Leica camera!
Movement “Made in Germany”
To accommodate these distinctive functions, Leica has developed the in-house, manually-wound LH-1001 calibre. Packing a decent 60-hour power reserve, the movement boasts eye-catching architecture, featuring smartly shaped bridges that have frosted surfaces and shiny raised borders. The bridges’ anthracite treatment in turn sets off the gilded gears and balance wheel, creating a visually striking ensemble visible through the transparent display back.
Smooth Lines
The case of the Leica ZM 1 and ZM 2 is crafted from 316L stainless steel with a sleek black PVD treatment. It measures 41mm in diameter and 14.5mm in height, with a lug-to-lug length of 48mm. Each surface is satin-finished, with polished bevelled edges enhancing the smooth lines of the case profile. The dial is protected by a domed sapphire crystal with scratch-resistant, anti-reflective coating. Meanwhile, the slender screw-mounted bezel avoids dominating the face of the watch, allowing the clean and balanced dial to take centre stage.
Strap Options
Both models come with a durable full-grain black calfskin leather strap, featuring Monochrom embossing that mirrors the texture of the M11 Monochrom camera. The cut-edge construction includes ton-sur-ton stitching, black latch stitching and a black Alcantara backlining. Available in sizes S, M and L, the strap is complemented by Leica’s black PVD steel tang buckle, boasting polished and brushed finishes and an engraved Leica logo.
Limited Production
Leica makes a point of stating that the ZM 1 and ZM 2 watches, along with their calibres, are “Made in Germany” from design to production, with the movements and other components primarily manufactured in the workshop of Leica’s partner, Lehmann Präzision.
Due to low-volume production, the ZM 1 and ZM 2 are available in limited quantities, with prices starting at CHF 11,300 for the ZM 1 Monochrom and CHF 13,800 for the ZM 2 Monochrom.
In essence – an apt word given the subject – the Leica ZM 1 and ZM 2 Monochrom watches are not merely timekeepers but a considered expression of Leica's dedication to minimalist design, seamlessly using its photographic heritage to inform its horological innovation.
For more information, please visit the Leica website.
