When Parmigiani Fleurier CEO Guido Terreni revitalised the Tonda PF collection in 2021, it set a new benchmark for the brand’s modern appeal. With the relaunch of the dressy Toric collection at Watches & Wonders this year, Terreni then turned his attention to one of Parmigiani’s foundational models, first introduced in 1996.
The revamped Toric line now comprises two distinct models, united by a shared design language of classical elegance: the minimalist 40.6mm Petite Seconde in platinum with a Grey Celadon dial or in rose gold with a Sand Gold dial, and the 42.5mm Chronographe Rattrapante, a 30-piece limited edition in 18k rose gold with a Natural Umber dial.
Each piece embodies a perfect synthesis of the clear vision and guiding principles of company founder Michel Parmigiani’s, enhanced splendidly by Terreni’s contemporary touch.
“When I saw the first new Toric, I experienced immense pleasure and emotion,” says Michel Parmigiani. “The codes and identity have been honoured. The new Toric introduces a touch of modernity that makes it appear more contemporary than the original model. This is evidence of its timeless nature.”
Here are six design details behind the Toric that help make it the hit dress watch it is today.
What’s in a Name?
The name “Toric” is steeped in architectural geometry. As Michel Parmigiani explains: “Toric derives from the word 'torus,' a geometric shape that represents a curved tube closed in on itself, found at the base of Greco-Roman columns. These tori inspired the name 'Toric.'”
This architectural influence underscores the watch’s timeless appeal, connecting the collection to the enduring principles of classical design.
Case Gadroons and Knurled Bezel
A defining feature of the Toric collection is the gadrooned case design, characterised by incremental steps that add depth and texture. The knurled bezel, inspired by Doric columns, is one of these layers. A hallmark of ancient Greek architecture, Doric columns are known for their fluted shafts and plain capitals, embodying a robust and timeless aesthetic. Their unadorned simplicity conveys strength and balance, qualities mirrored in the refined design of the Toric.
Michel Parmigiani shares an unexpected source of inspiration for the gadroons: “On a beach in Malaysia, I found shells shaped like a hat with gadroons. When you tilt them 45 degrees and look at them, they seem flat.”
He continues: “This optical illusion was fascinating. I thought that if I ever wanted to make a watch with a complicated movement, which increases the case thickness, by adding gadroons to the case, I could achieve a flattening effect: the watch would appear flatter.”
By combining the optical effect of the gadroons with the robust influence of the Doric columns, the Toric case achieves a balance of architectural beauty and subtle engineering ingenuity.
Proportions Rooted in the Golden Ratio
The harmonious proportions of the Toric watches are no coincidence. They are grounded in the Golden Ratio, a principle celebrated in art, architecture and nature.
Michel Parmigiani explains: “It embodies harmonious proportionality in its form. I refer here to the golden ratio. Many artists and architects – for example, Antoni Gaudí, Frank Lloyd Wright, and Le Corbusier – have used this mathematical concept to create balanced, harmonious, and aesthetic structures. We also find this golden ratio in Renaissance timepieces. Divine proportion is a language understood by any civilisation.”
Le Corbusier and Natural Tones
Le Corbusier’s influence doesn’t stop with the use of the Golden Ratio. The new Toric’s dial and strap colours – Grey Celadon, Sand Gold and Natural Umber – are said to be inspired by the chromatic palette of renowned architect and designer.
These earthy tones help to evoke a sense of natural harmony and purity forming a chromatic identity that is perfectly aligned with the Toric’s classical design language.
Exquisite Hand-Grained Dial
The Toric’s hand-grained 18k gold dials are a testament to traditional craftsmanship.
As Michel Parmigiani explains: “We find these grained dials on antique marine chronometers and table clocks. When I restored Breguet's Sympathique clock, its dial was black, the result of silver oxidation. In some cases, these silver dials can be restored using tartar cream, a soft brush and water. But when they can't be saved, you must strip them with abrasive material. This creates a very regular matte surface, to which we apply a mixture of cream of tartar, sea salt and silver with demineralised water.”
He further describes the meticulous process: “Using special brushes, the dial is rubbed in circular motions in all directions. Starting with a hard brush gives it a lead colour. To achieve a denser, whiter grain, we use a much thinner, softer brush, whose bristles easily fold. As pressure is applied by hand... the dial begins to be covered with silver particles that adhere to the material.”
On the Toric, this time-honoured “grené” technique creates a dial texture that diffuses light with exceptional softness. What’s more, the edges of the Toric dials are bevelled using the “chevé” technique, creating a subtle curvature at the edges that integrates with the case.
Movements in 18K Rose Gold
Finally, the Toric collection has taken a bold step with its use of 18K rose gold movements, a rarity in modern watchmaking. The brand-new Calibre PF780 in the Petite Seconde and the high-frequency PF361 in the Chronographe Rattrapante both showcase this precious metal that is used to make the plates and bridges.
The PF780 features three large bridges adorned with Côtes de Fleurier, while the PF361 incorporates skeletonised elements with satin brushing and hand-bevelling, offering an unobstructed view of its mechanical brilliance.
For more information, please visit the Parmigiani Fleurier website.
