They arouse astonishment and admiration, surprise and enthusiasm. “They” being the creations unveiled this spring by Vacheron Constantin at Watches and Wonders. This year, the Manufacture which is preparing to celebrate 270 years of uninterrupted activity in 2025 is providing an irrefutable demonstration of expertise through its vast expressive territory and rich stylistic vocabulary. The excellence of technical complications, casual chic style, the timeless elegance of classic design, High Jewelry refinement applied to watchmaking, the infinite delicacy of feminine watches… Vacheron Constantin never neglects any of the areas in which its watchmakers have consistently expressed themselves. Underpinning the wealth of new releases – including models in the Overseas, Égérie, Traditionnelle and Patrimony collections – is an impressive watchmaking heritage scrupulously cultivated by the Maison. Notably comprising some 1,600 antique watches, historical registers and handwritten letters, Vacheron Constantin’s prestigious heritage could well have imposed a straitjacket on the contemporary creativity of the Manufacture’s watchmakers. Not so. On the contrary, this rich heritage is an inexhaustible source of inspiration that shines through in every collection, in perfectly natural yet sometimes entirely unexpected ways.
WOMEN IN THE SPOTLIGHT
This year, Vacheron Constantin’s take on the ‘unexpected’ is draped in feminine finery. The Manufacture’s creativity begins with the precious Grand Lady Kalla, a spectacular timepiece composed of a watch and a long tassel necklace that can be worn in four different ways around the neck or on the wrist. Embroidered with 57-facet emerald-cut diamonds, Akoya pearls and onyx, this Art Deco-style creation was inspired by the precious Kallista of 1979 and the Kalla that followed it in 1980: two luminous treasures that made their mark on the Maison’s long and rich jewelry watch history. The Grand Lady Kalla is a sparkling tribute to this grand tradition and to the virtuoso jewelry-making skills celebrated by Vacheron Constantin over the generations.
In an equally refined vein, the Égérie collection is enhanced by two new variations developed in collaboration with Haute Couture designer Yiqing Yin, the Maison’s “One of not Many” talent: a one-of-a-kind “The Pleats of Time” concept watch; alongside the Égérie moon phase 100-piece limited edition. The former watch features a pink gold case set with a diamond-set bezel; a lilac mother-of-pearl dial adorned with a pleated motif; as well as a very Haute Couture-looking strap woven with fine embroidery and mother-of-pearl fragments. Designed as an experiential object, the watch features an original innovation: an exclusive fragrance created by perfumer Dominique Ropion, encapsulated in the strap and randomly released in step with wrist movements. This one-off creation that Vacheron Constantin did not wish to market gave rise to the Égérie moon phases, also graced with dainty lilac hues. At the confluence of High Watchmaking and Haute Couture, its mother-of-pearl dial, inspired by the creative universe of Yiqing Yin, is framed by a beautiful 37mm pink gold case highlighted by a diamond-set bezel and housing an in-house self-winding caliber, paired with interchangeable straps/bracelet in shades envisioned by the fashion designer.
HISTORICAL INSPIRATION
It’s a little-known fact that Vacheron Constantin has always accompanied women in their interest in mechanical watchmaking. “Vacheron Constantin is an extremely technical High Watchmaking Maison”, according to Product Marketing & Innovation Director Sandrine Donguy in a video interview on WorldTempus. “However, when you look at the Manufacture’s past, we have always sought to satisfy the desires of our female customers. We are fortunate to have historical connections that also reveal women’s extremely high expectations in terms of gemsetting as well as technical complexity. The latter has also pushed the boundaries in terms of innovation and caliber miniaturization.” The first quarter repeater created by the Maison in a pocket-watch case was commissioned by a countess. Another example is a ladies’ wristwatch from 1889 (already!) that was manually wound via the rotating bezel. “Today, we’re simply perpetuating a heritage that has part of the Maison for a very long time”, adds Sandrine Donguy.
MINIMALISM AT ITS FINEST
All of Vacheron Constantin’s collections benefit from this dynamic, which borrows from the treasures of the past to better open up the field of possibilities - starting with the Patrimony collection which is celebrating its 20th anniversary this year. The most minimalist of the Maison’s lines was born in 2004 from a sketch inspired by the elegant ultrathin models Vacheron Constantin produced in the 1950s, most notably Reference 6179 launched in 1957. “In terms of watch design, it was a decade of extreme sophistication, and we decided to draw inspiration from it”, says Style & Heritage Director Christian Selmoni in a video interview on WorldTempus. This year, the Maison revisits the line with two hand-wound models in white or pink gold, featuring a diameter trimmed to 39mm, an aged silver-toned dial, a solid caseback for possible personalization, as well as sky blue or olive green straps. These two models are joined by a new 42.5mm white goldmoon phase retrograde date model that also favors the understated elegance of an aged silver dial enlivened by the Patrimony’s characteristic circular ‘pearl’ minutes track. This minimalist elegance finds its way through generations while keeping step with trends.
COUNTLESS CREATIVE NUANCES
Therein undoubtedly lies one of Vacheron Constantin’s best-kept secrets: the ability to juggle eras, to embed its timepieces firmly in their time, while subtly evoking their origins. Consistently modern and never backward-looking, Vacheron Constantin’s contemporary collections master every register. The grand watchmaking tradition is well represented this year by the Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph - Collection Excellence Platine, a timepiece for discerning collectors. The casual chic vibe is expressed through the Overseas Tourbillon, crafted in titanium for ultra-comfortable wear. Vacheron Constantin’s sportiest collection is also enriched by four new variations on the same theme. The 41mm chronograph, dual time and date versions as well as the 35mm gemset interpretation are attired in pink gold, paired with three interchangeable straps/bracelet ensuring a versatile spirit, as well as introducing a brandnew intense green dial color playing across the sunburst satin-brushed center and velvet-finished flange. An exhilarating nuance that adds to the creative palette of this Manufacture which, on the eve of its 270th anniversary, continues to demonstrate great panache in lighting up the present through the lens of history.
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