Regulators

on October 27, 2023

2 minutes read

Today, a regulator is a type of watch, but a long time ago, as early as the 17th century, it was a clock. And not just any clock: an excellent clock used to determine the reference time. Its hands were not on the same axis, for the sake of legibility and therefore reading accuracy. The larger minute hand was in the center of the dial, while the smaller hour hand was generally off-center at noon. A unique dial architecture found on modern regulators

Hamilton, CHF 1,195

A first prize for a perfectly designed mechanical watch that plays the asymmetry card in a contemporary reinterpretation of watchmaking tradition. Legibility is optimized by a silver sunray treatment of the sub-counters on an immaculate white background, and gold hands, Arabic numerals and hour-markers.

Jazzmaster © Hamilton — Jazzmaster in steel, 42 mm diameter, automatic movement with small seconds, leather strap © Hamilton

Pequignet, CHF 1,380

A very elegant made-in-France regulator thanks to its equestrian-inspired design. The two oversized lugs connecting the case to the bracelet recall the geometry of stirrups. A successful stylistic effect combined with a minimalist silver sunray guilloché dial featuring two blued steel hands and a date window.

Equus Origine © Pequignet — Equus Origine in steel, 41 mm diameter, automatic movement with date window, leather strap © Pequignet

Alpina, CHF 1,995

A successful blend of tradition and modernity with excellent value for money. This regulator features an original vintage dial architecture with off-center hours at 10 o'clock, combined with a very contemporary overall aesthetic with its cushion-shaped case, integrated metal bracelet and alternating polished and satin-finished surfaces.

Alpiner Extreme © Alpina — Alpiner Extreme in steel, 42 mm diameter, automatic movement with small seconds, steel bracelet. 888-piece limited edition © Alpina

Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein, CHF 4,000

A highly original version of a regulator made possible by Alain Silberstein's colorful, childlike universe. Against a khaki dial, three central hands are dedicated to the passing of time. Red, off-center and triangular, for the hour; white, arrow-shaped, in the center, for the minutes; and yellow, central and serpentine, for the seconds.

Semaine Khaki © Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein — La Semaine Khaki in titanium, 47 mm in diameter, automatic movement with central second hand and date window, canvas strap. 178-piece limited edition © Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein

Chronoswiss, CHF 11,900

A most modern interpretation of the regulator. The skeletonized caliber features deep, hypnotic guilloché patterns similar to carbon fibers, against which, beyond the off-center hours and central minutes, stands a retrograde hand displaying the seconds on an arc of a circle graduated from 0 to 30.

Open Gear Resec Voodoo © Chronoswiss — Open Gear Resec Voodoo in DLC steel, 44 mm diameter, automatic skeleton movement, leather strap. 50-piece limited edition © Chronoswiss

Bell & Ross, CHF 19,500

A surprisingly classic model in the Bell & Ross collection – a brand that is better known for its famous square watches – that turns out to be a real success. Elegance and chic are the order of the day, thanks to a case with vintage handles and a superb opaline silver dial worthy of the finest timepieces from the 1950s.

WW1 © Bell & Ross — WW1 in rose gold, 42 mm diameter, automatic movement with small seconds, leather strap. 99-piece limited edition © Bell & Ross

Glashütte Original, CHF 26,700

A regulator, but not only: a grand complication offering not only a large date, but also a power-reserve indicator. An indispensable function for a timepiece powered by a hand-wound mechanical caliber. The various indications on the dial in no way compromise legibility, as none are stacked one on top of each other.

Senator Chronometer © Glashütte Original — Senator Chronometer in red gold, 42 mm diameter, hand-wound movement with small seconds, large date, power-reserve and day-night indicators, leather strap © Glashütte Original

Laurent Ferrier, CHF 37,000

A magnificent timepiece signed by one of the greatest watchmakers of modern times, launched in 2017, which is unfortunately no longer available. But if we are to believe the rumors going around, this regulator may be reintegrated into the Laurent Ferrier collection. Stay tuned, as this sober, rounded line is irresistible, not to mention the quality of its movement.