When Abraham- Louis Breguet is mentioned, the watchmaking world speaks of Breguet hands and Breguet numerals as universal values of classicism and good taste. When it comes to technology, common official designations mention Breguet teeth, Breguet balance-springs and so on. Everyone is also keenly aware that the illustrious watchmaker is responsible for inventions such as the tourbillon and the minute-repeater spring.
It was thus naturally with great interest that we reviewed the new Classique Répétition Minutes Reference 7637.
EXTERIOR:
The classic case appears here in a diameter (42mm) to thickness (12.35mm) ratio that both surprises and appeals. One might easily have expected a smaller diameter given the overall downsizing trend as well as the movement’s compact nature. As this is a minute repeater, it’s easy to imagine that these proportions were chosen to amplify the watch’s acoustic resonance, yet they are perfectly suited to the style and elegance of the whole. The case itself holds no surprises, as its quality craftsmanship is as appreciable as ever. The operation of the repeater slide is gentle and smooth. The black enamel dial is as understated as it is imposing in terms of its refinement and perfectly balanced proportions. The powdered silver Arabic numerals stand out clearly, while the polished, yet opaque enamel lends appealing depth. The traditional secret signature naturally appears at 6 o’clock.
MOVEMENT:
There are few surprises here either, as Caliber 567/2 (Lemania 399) powering this watch has been proving its worth for decades. Given that development costs for repeater movements are the highest in the world, and that their market share is the lowest, itʹs commendable not to take any technical or financial risks. The mechanism’s key features are its 12 ½ʹʹʹ diameter, 40h power reserve and 18,000 vph frequency. While this caliber is undoubtedly a marvel of fine watchmaking, reliability and longevity that fits perfectly into a collection named “Classique”, some collectors may be expecting a more recent caliber for a brand that bears the name of history’s most creative and inventive watchmaker. One can safely bet that the Manufacture’s watchmakers have a surprise in store for them soon! The hand engraving of the bridges, their shape, as well as the index assembly, the architecture and the finishing of this movement place it resolutely in the firmament of exceptional traditional watchmaking that everyone will appreciate at its true value.
TESTS:
The timekeeping precision and performance of this caliber are well known, so we weren’t surprised there either. While excellent, the rates are those of an old-timer caliber, and the power reserve is consistent with the movement’s small size. The winding mechanism and its pawl (clearly perceptible yet light) are a joy to use during the daily operations required by the watch. The minute repeater slide moves smoothly both when pressed and released. It was at this point that we were finally surprised. The chiming is doubtless one of the most crystal-clear we’ve ever heard from this caliber, even through a few occasional irregularities are perceptible. The volumes of the case and its proportions have clearly been carefully worked on to offer this diva the best possible acoustics.
This watch is a pure incarnation of classicism, elegance and craftsmanship. Observing and handling it elicits endless pleasure. You can sense its quality from a distance, just by glimpsing a single detail of its case. It makes you feel good and hold your head up when you’re wearing it, not in a demonstrative show of pride, but instead subtly, precisely because its panache lies in its absolute discretion.
