Let’s grant watchmaking the privilege of respecting traditions. But there comes a time when they must be surpassed. Let’s take advantage of this Valentine’s Day to forget about pink dials and little hearts. Let’s break the mold. Let’s switch roles: what watches could Madame gift her beloved?
Unique (Like Him)
Let’s admit to a bit of watchmaking laziness: when looking for a unique and profoundly disruptive piece, there’s no need to look further than Jaquet Droz. The workshop in La Chaux-de-Fonds has just released a breathtaking work of art. Its hand-crafted dial features the mask of a Japanese warrior. The Métiers d’Art are in the spotlight: engraving, sculpting, enameling, and even an impressive Murano glass bead setting. All housed in a sapphire case that eliminates screws, leaving an unobstructed view of the 8-day power reserve tourbillon.
Surprising
A chronograph usually means a sports watch, a racing spirit, competition. Except at Louis Moinet. Why? Because the watchmaker himself invented the “chronograph” complication, and the workshop that now bears his name has created a grand commemorative edition. The piece is not new—this Memoris will soon be 10 years old. Yet, it remains incredibly relevant. The entire chronograph complication has been shifted to the dial, allowing for an intimate and mesmerizing view of its mechanics in action. A creation of rare power, designed to withstand the test of time.
Inimitable
You can search high and low, but when it comes to shaped watches, one reigns supreme: the Reverso by Jaeger-LeCoultre. In six years, it will celebrate its centennial. Yet, it remains as strikingly relevant as ever, with an absolutely perfect style and timeless elegance. It is also one of the last rectangular watches to house a shaped movement—that is, one that is also rectangular. The manufacture in Le Sentier has just unveiled a new rose gold version of its chronograph. On the front, two sovereign hands. On the back, the chronograph laid bare. The Reverso is eternal.
Lively
Watchmaking is serious business... but not always. One brand masterfully combines both dimensions with a playful and cinematic flair: Perrelet. They have just unveiled a new turbine model with several standout features. First, a cushion-shaped case, a first for the brand. Second, three color variations in green, blue, and red. Lastly, a new skeletonized movement that becomes visible when the turbine on the dial side spins at high speed, creating an optical illusion. This Turbine Urban Skeleton, priced at CHF 5,750 with an in-house caliber, remains unbeatable in the realm of technical, playful, and unconventional watchmaking.
Virile
Pilot watch, military-style black leather strap, ceramic case, carbon dial. Say no more—the Avenger Automatic 42 Night Mission by Breitling is ready for extreme thrills. We appreciate the preservation of the Avenger spirit, the reduction of the diameter to 42mm, the ultra-lightweight construction, and the continuation of the brand’s aviation heritage. Despite its highly functional nature, it remains an everyday wearable piece. Icons aren’t always easy to evolve. Breitling succeeds here with precision and power.
