What are the dominant colours in watchmaking? They fall into two categories. First, there are the evergreen tones that transcend place and time: white, black and grey. Then there are the fashionable colours that dominate the media, align with current trends and appeal to collectors who are plugged into the zeitgeist. Blue and green are currently having a moment.
These categories, which were recently highlighted by designer and colour expert Jean-Gabriel Causse during a seminar for Positive Coating’s 20th anniversary, have not gone unnoticed by IWC. The Schaffhausen-based manufacture has just updated the colour range of its Ingenieur Automatic 40 line. Previously available in black, grey, white and green, blue has now been added to the mix. The palette is complete.
Upcoming anniversary
Designed by Gérald Genta in 1955, the Ingenieur will celebrate its 70th anniversary in 2025. The milestone is likely to be marked with limited editions or new complications, further enhancing the legacy of this grande dame of tool watches. In its 40 mm version, particularly in this new blue livery, the piece becomes more unisex than ever.
It genuinely has something for everyone. Those nostalgic for its adventurous past will appreciate the robust steel case. And, while ‘robust’ is a common adjective in watchmaking, it holds special significance for IWC’s Ingenieur. In 1955, the piece was designed with antimagnetic properties, featuring an inner soft iron cage to shield the movement from external magnetisation during expeditions. Nearly 70 years on, this feature is still going strong: every Ingenieur Automatic 40 boasts a steel case lined with a protective soft iron casing.
Beyond this technical distinction, the 21st-century adventurer will appreciate its bezel with five visible screws (a Genta hallmark), screw-down crown, solid caseback and impressive 120-hour power reserve. It’s worth noting that, while many watches claim to be “weekend-proof” with their 48-hour power reserve, IWC raises the bar with a “week-proof” watch offering a full five days of autonomy. This feat is achieved by the Calibre 32111, which powers this new blue version as well as the four existing variations.
Blue grid
Aesthetes will appreciate the mirror-polished bevels on the bezel and bracelet, the modest 40 mm diameter and especially the new electric blue dial. IWC has applied the Ingenieur Automatic’s signature motif – an unusual combination of two geometric shapes: lines and squares. Being stamped, it’s three-dimensional, perhaps best described as four bars followed by 12 cubes.
This uncommon – perhaps unique – ornament is surprisingly easy on the eye, designed in keeping with the mathematical precision of the aptly named Ingenieur (engineer). Set against the new blue backdrop, this “grid” creation is traversed by three steel hands with luminescent coating. As with the black and British racing green variations, this combination of blue and polished steel offers a strong contrast, ensuring excellent legibility.
