Louis Vuitton has just presented its first public pocket watch, the ‘Escale à Asnières’, a unique piece that brings together an array of intricate elements into a finely tuned work of horological art. It not only pays homage to the maison’s iconic past, but also stands as a testament to the house's keen pursuit of watchmaking excellence in the present.
Tribute to a Legacy
At the heart of this creation lies a deep connection to the past: the Asnières family home and atelier, where Louis Vuitton himself first set up shop in 1859. Located just outside of Paris, this historic site has always been central to the brand’s DNA, serving as both a family home and workshop for generations of Vuittons. Today, it serves as a museum retracing the heritage and spirit of the Vuitton family.
Taking more than two years to create, the Escale à Asnières pocket watch draws its inspiration from this location, beautifully recreating the iconic house on the dial, complete with a 19th-century horse-drawn delivery carriage – a nod to the brand’s early days in high-end trunk-making.
This image is not just a creative flourish. It is directly inspired by an 1887 advertisement and an 1888 family portrait featuring three generations of the Vuitton family: Louis, Georges and Gaston-Louis Vuitton, alongside their artisans and the beloved carriage. The horse, trunks and coachman all come to life in a miniature automaton scene, elegantly merging history with watchmaking savoir-faire.
Masterful Mechanics
Inside the 50mm 18K pink-gold, gem-set case, the Calibre LFT AU14.01 takes pride of place. This is no ordinary movement: Conceived and developed by La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, it brings together 480 components, all painstakingly assembled to create a symphony of sound and storytelling.
One of the standout features is undoubtedly the on-demand minute repeater with cathedral gong, a high complication that strikes the time with two distinct chimes: the lower-pitched "dong" for hours and the higher "ding" for minutes. The quarter-hour chime? A blend of both, the traditional "ding-dong."
But the complexity doesn’t stop there. The mechanism also drives a Jacquemart automaton with seven separate animations. These automata are not merely for show – they tell a poetic story. “I love to bring some poetry into this mathematical world of high watchmaking. It’s a mix of high watchmaking and theatre,” says master watchmaker Enrico Barbasini, who along with fellow master watchmaker Michel Navas, spearheaded the creation of the movement.
Every action, from the carriage wheels turning to the trunks popping open to reveal tiny Monogram Flowers, is timed to perfection, moving at different tempos to create an immersive scene on the dial. This tableau is crowned by a rotating diamond sun at 12 o'clock, the smallest LV-cut stone the maison has ever created.
The Art of Gold Engraving
Equally impressive is the artistic mastery displayed on both the dial and the caseback. Master engraver Dick Steenman used the intricate bas-relief technique, meticulously carving from a single block of 18k yellow gold to create a three-dimensional scene. This technique allows for depth and precision, transforming two-dimensional drawings into miniature moving works of art.
Every element is crafted with immense care – from the horse’s musculature to the tiny trunks on the carriage, which echo Louis Vuitton’s famous Trianon pattern, the very first canvas used by the brand. The trunks feature vertical brushing, while the horse-drawn carriage is sculpted for an extraordinary level of detail.
Steenman’s ability to work with the material brings a stunning interplay of light and texture, which is particularly evident in the lifelike reins of the horse and the intricate woodgrain of the carriage. As a final touch, the gold elements are fired at 800°C to form a dark, burnt finish before being delicately brushed to reveal subtle layers of tone and shade.
Steenman’s work on this pocket watch took seven weeks to complete and his artistry is also prominently displayed on the pink-gold caseback, which features the same scene, but this time brought to life by the additional steps of hollowing and chiselling, among others.
Tapestry of Colour
Master enameller Anita Porchet breathed further life into the dial that features a hand-guilloche pattern radiating from the sun. Renowned for her unparalleled skill in enamelling, Porchet carefully selected 35 hues to capture the vibrancy of the Asnières family home and its surroundings. Each layer of enamel is applied by hand and fired multiple times – up to 20 firings in total – until the right balance of colour and depth is achieved.
Porchet’s skill doesn’t stop at mere colouring. She enlivens the scene with meticulous attention to detail, ensuring that light and shadows dance across the dial as if the house itself were glowing in the afternoon sun.
At the end, the enamel is sealed with a final coat of translucent fondant, which not only protects the colours, but also enhances their luminosity, creating a scene as rich in depth as it is in meaning.
A Fitting Showcase
Of course, such a masterpiece could not be stored in anything less than something exceptional. The Escale à Asnières pocket watch duly comes housed in a bespoke high-end trunk, crafted in Asnières, the location that inspired the timepiece.
The trunk is wrapped in exotic green leather that complements the enamel of the dial and contains hidden compartments for the watch’s accessories, including an 18K pink gold chain, a travel pouch, a magnifying loupe and documentation that chronicles the journey of this exceptional piece.
“The ‘Escale à Asnières’ pocket watch is a wonderful adventure for us all,” says Navas, reflecting on the collaborative effort behind this unique timepiece. “This piece represents the meeting of the expertise of Geneva and Paris, where haute horlogerie complication and intricate know-how embrace the tradition of Asnières.”
Past, Present and Future
The Escale à Asnières pocket watch is more than just a timepiece; it is a story of where Louis Vuitton began, where it is today and where it dares to go. From the gold engraving and enamelling to the technical mastery of the minute repeater and automaton, this unique piece is a fitting tribute to Louis Vuitton’s long-standing tradition of pushing the boundaries of craftsmanship.
For more information, please visit the Louis Vuitton website.
