Would you say that the evolution of Dubai Watch Week matches that of Czapek?
Completely! I would say that there are 50% more people here today than the last edition. It has been non-stop. Two years ago, it was the beginning of the hype for Czapek. I use that term because it is both negative and positive, because what is happening with independent watches is positive, but also dangerous. Success is like fire – it can cook you a meal and warm you up, but it can also burn you. So, this is what I have learned to funnel success into step-by-step growth.
How do you keep things in the positive zone?
The key is not to exaggerate the hype, to play things low key, to not launch too many Antarctiques, for example. We have launched in other areas, with the Quai des Bergues, the Complicité, and the Place Vendôme, and we tell people to take their time.
With the introduction of the Antarctique at the last Dubai Watch Week in 2021, we were making 150 watches, and then we were raising it to 1000, to 2,000. I was talking to one of my contemporaries at another independent brand who warned me to be careful, telling me he had seen 2,400 orders vanish overnight. And he was right. It is like crossing the ocean in a small boat. You have to surf the waves; you cannot fight the current head-on. All you can do is manage the wind and the waves so they don’t break you.
Is it important for you to remain small and agile so you can change direction if need be?
Exactly. For example, the best number of employees for the company is 30 to 35. This year, we will finish the year with 25 employees and we know exactly what we are lacking and we are going to hire these talents, but slowly.
You have an incredibly strong community, many of whom are here at Dubai Watch Week. Do they help give you important feedback?
Yes, you learn a lot. The day I stop coming to Dubai Watch Week, will be a very bad sign for Czapek. It is a fast market here, it is a market that loves new products, where the end consumer is at the centre of things. That’s why all of us who are heads of product, creative directors, CEOs etc., who are tailoring watches for customers, need to be here.
Are you seeing any emerging trends?
Trends are emerging and it is very interesting. Sometimes it feels a bit like haute couture, because it is constantly changing. I used to work in high fashion with Cifonelli, on the men’s side, which is cooler, softer and more relaxed. For the women’s side, it was just, wow! For me, this is what is happening. The market is moving to that level of speed, creativity, fantasy and freedom, it is so cool. That’s why we need to be here.
Are you unveiling any new timepieces?
Yes, we are launching the Antarctique Royal Onyx with a black onyx dial and indexes made of a natural blue sapphire, which is something quite unique and rare. People love it. This model came from Mohamed at Mansour Jewellers. We were just talking and we were very open. We have this tagline of “collecting rare people”. But we don’t want to say who is rare enough and who isn’t. We are not here to judge. It is a journey and if someone wants to jump on the train, they are welcome. If they respect our people, transparency, integrity, etc. then let’s work together. It is a mindset. And so, Mohamed was there and he said, “Can we do a watch?” and I said, “Cool, let’s do it”, and we created something truly amazing.
